Anyone used "nut-serts" to install the windshield frame?

[reamer]

How is this done? how to deal with, and seal the shoulder of the nut-sert?

 

[DC_Gearhead]

I did. I’ll send pics.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[Timstrk]

You have pictures coming but the thickness of the seal should take care of that. I did the top row with nutserts and it works just fine.

 

[Madgyver]

I welded the nuts in place in the green77. In Taz's rig I may have used nutserts.

 

[Hammer6672]

I done mine last week with popped rivets allinimun 3/16 with big head worked great and took no time

 

[Dne007]

How many across does one weld, or nutsert, and how large a head will fit?. I just bought a new windshield frame just now. I'm thinking just to weld the nuts in place. As good as the aluminum nutsters are, I just don't trust them, but again, how often does one remove their windshield frame
dne'

 

[m_m70]

I used 16 stainless nutserts on my stainless windshield frame and happy with the way it came out. used pan head allen bolts to secure.

 

[Dne007]

Darn, that looks great! ordered my new frame/hinge~ guess I'll be doing this~ Thanks for the incredible pics!

I used 16 stainless nutserts on my stainless windshield frame and happy with the way it came out. used pan head allen bolts to secure.

View attachment 875755 View attachment 875756

 

[Bronco4x4]

Yes. Nutserts worked fine on my SS windshield frame as well.

 

[Dne007]

Could you guys give me a brand name of the nutsert tool you're using? thanks

 

[SeaVee]

I wish I could post a pic but I am an idiot. However, I did get nurtserts and the tool from McMaster-Carr to fix a fuel sending unit in a aluminum fuel tank. Worked like a charm. I will keep looking , I have the invoice somewhere.

 

[Dne007]

Does the size head of the bolt/screw matter? It won't interfere when putting the frame in its upright position?
thanks again

 

[76YETI]

How about these? https://www.wildhorses4x4.com/product/19346/Early-Bronco-Hard-Top

 

[jamesroney]

When the factory did it, they used a hinge with a ~5/8 relief hole in it for the head of the bolt. They only needed about 9 attaching bolts, and they are 1/4-20 grade 5 with 7/16 low heads. The AMK master bolt kit includes them in their 66-68 kits.

PLEASE stop with the nutserts. Am I the only person that has ever had to drill out a nutsert? Hasn't anyone had a door mirror that they couldn't fix because the nutsert spun in the sheet metal? I can tolerate the hex style nutserts like the ones in the tailgate handle...but the round ones are horrible. Like most things today...they last just long enough to be a problem for the next guy. Once they spin, then you can't drill them out. Because they spin.

And STOP with the stainless button heads. Stainless threads love to gall. And the tiny little hex is not nearly adequate to turn a bolt. So they round out. And Stainless is really hard to drill.

If you are dead set on using a nutsert, please use fasteners that can handle adverse environments. Marine grade is a good idea. 20 years from now...it might be you that has to fix it. A brass screw in a steel nutsert would be my choice.

What's wrong with a bolt and a nut?

 

[Dne007]

ooo, I like your way of thinking! Yeah, why can't I just use a nut and bolt~ I will NEVER be removing my windshield frame assembly once installed. I was worried about the aluminum nutserts stripping out as that's that's happened to me before on side mirrors. I really didn't want to buy a nutsert tool.

When the factory did it, they used a hinge with a ~5/8 relief hole in it for the head of the bolt. They only needed about 9 attaching bolts, and they are 1/4-20 grade 5 with 7/16 low heads. The AMK master bolt kit includes them in their 66-68 kits.

PLEASE stop with the nutserts. Am I the only person that has ever had to drill out a nutsert? Hasn't anyone had a door mirror that they couldn't fix because the nutsert spun in the sheet metal? I can tolerate the hex style nutserts like the ones in the tailgate handle...but the round ones are horrible. Like most things today...they last just long enough to be a problem for the next guy. Once they spin, then you can't drill them out. Because they spin.

And STOP with the stainless button heads. Stainless threads love to gall. And the tiny little hex is not nearly adequate to turn a bolt. So they round out. And Stainless is really hard to drill.

If you are dead set on using a nutsert, please use fasteners that can handle adverse environments. Marine grade is a good idea. 20 years from now...it might be you that has to fix it. A brass screw in a steel nutsert would be my choice.

What's wrong with a bolt and a nut?

 

[Dne007]

Now this is for the hard top? not the hinge mount?

How about these? https://www.wildhorses4x4.com/product/19346/Early-Bronco-Hard-Top

 

[duffymahoney]

Honestly I wish i would have gone non painted stainless, my paint on the hinge looks like crap

 

[DirtDonk]

Correct. Side to body, front to body. But for the top of the frame only, not the bottom at the hinge.

 

[DirtDonk]

I’ve asked before and don’t remember anyone answering the positive, but is anyone filling that cavity with silicone yet?
Or at least something goopy and filling, but not quite as glue-like when dried.

 

[m_m70]

I’ve asked before and don’t remember anyone answering the positive, but is anyone filling that cavity with silicone yet?
Or at least something goopy and filling, but not quite as glue-like when dried.

Hey Paul
I used this:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000HBM3QQ/?tag=cbama-20

Doesn't harden and I have had zero leaks in lots of snow and rain.