7 pin trailer plug into centech harness

[hammer]

Best way to do it? I've heard rumblings of a chebby harness that will plug into a centech? Or is that just for a 4 plug?

 

[hammer]

Lol. lots of help. oh well. picked up a chevy "T" that uses weather pack connectors. that solves lights. ground is easy, blue wire goes to the brake controller.

What is the best way to hook up the black 12v wire? I'm assuming it should have some sort of fuse in line.

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[hammer]

The instructions for my brake controller say to hook the black (battery +) to the battery with a 20A or 30A auto reset circuit breaker. Should i just run the black 12v wire for the 7 way plug through the same breaker?

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[fuzzy2133]

The 20-30 amp breaker/12volt positive feed should only be from the battery to the controller.

From the controller to the 7 way plug there should be a trailer brake signal that does not need any fuse or breaker.

Sounds like you might be asking about a charging circuit for the trailer breakaway module?

can you post a link to the install directions so I can see what you are questioning?

 

[JohnJohn]

I am installing a 7 pin on a Centech harness and am in the middle of it.
I first installed a standard 4 pin by linking into the Centech harness behind the bumper. I tired a Chevy 4 pin connector first but the alignment cuts in the connector are different and I was not able to use it so I just tapped, solder and protected then wrapped the 3 wires for the 4 pin. The forth is just a local ground.

The 7 pin needs the following:
1. Right turn/brake
2. Left turn/brake
3. running lights
4. Ground
5. 12V power
6. Reverse light (optional)
7. Brake controller output

I picked up a 7 pin outlet kit that lets me plug my 4 pin into the back of it. Once I plug my 4 pin into the back of the 7 pin all I need now is to run two 14 gauge wires from the back to the front of the truck. One wire gets 12V power with a 20-amp circuit breaker. The other goes to the controller.

The Controller has its own ground, its own 12V with a breaker you need to add, the output wire running back to my bumper 7 pin, and a wire running to my tail light switch to engage when the brake lights are on.

You will also need a fuse or a circuit breaker on the 12V running directly from the Battery to the trailer.

Here is a link to a trailer site with good info:
http://www.etrailer.com/faq-wiring.aspx

 

[JohnJohn]

Curious what you are pulling?

I hope to safely pull my 17" flatbed dual axel trailer with the wife's 4 seat Polaris Razor. Total weight should be around 3300 pounds and I am hoping will not be a problem for the Bronco.

 

[hammer]

all I need now is to run two 14 gauge wires from the back to the front of the truck. One wire gets 12V power with a 20-amp circuit breaker.

The Controller has its own ground, its own 12V with a breaker you need to add, the output wire running back to my bumper 7 pin, and a wire running to my tail light switch to engage when the brake lights are on.

You will also need a fuse or a circuit breaker on the 12V running directly from the Battery to the trailer.

Here is a link to a trailer site with good info:
http://www.etrailer.com/faq-wiring.aspx

Okay so this is where my question lies.

You're running 2 separate lines with their own fuses. One to the controller and one to the 7 way plug. Correct? Can I run 1 line off the battery to a 20 amp circuit breaker and then two lines coming out of it, one to the controller and one to the 7 way plug?

Curious what you are pulling?

I hope to safely pull my 17" flatbed dual axel trailer with the wife's 4 seat Polaris Razor. Total weight should be around 3300 pounds and I am hoping will not be a problem for the Bronco.

I'm towing a 12 ft tent trailer (12ft box, 16 feet overall). 1800lbs dry, 2500lb max with cargo. I rebuilt my bumper so i could properly tow with it. I took the trailer for a spin and its pretty good. Although this is with no controller or wiring done. It does have a bit of bounce in the back end around town. I have lots of lift and 37'd so its not ideal. I did my frame with dual shock mounts in the rear but never installed the 2nd shock after reading how terribly stiff it mades an EB. I might throw them in and see what kinda effect it has on towing. Also looking at raising my tire air pressure to tow with as well. You can see the sidewalls of my 37's flexing when you jump up and down on the tongue. Its not a heavy trailer but I'm trying to cross every T and dot every I.

 

[JohnJohn]

I think you should be fine running one fused lead then splitting it. It will still require two wires running all the way to the rear but will save you running two lines at the battery.

I am planning on adding a 6 circuit fuse block under the dash to run accessories like this, my CB, Radio, Fog lights and other stuff.
Here is a link to the block I will be adding in:Fuse Block
Good luck to you.

 

[fuzzy2133]

Okay so this is where my question lies.

You're running 2 separate lines with their own fuses. One to the controller and one to the 7 way plug. Correct? Can I run 1 line off the battery to a 20 amp circuit breaker and then two lines coming out of it, one to the controller and one to the 7 way plug?

...

My only concern with one fused feed split to 2 would be what amperage will the trailer be drawing (if it uses that pin. if not no big deal)? The electrical engineers already figured out how much the controller can pull (probably at full gain with brakes on 4 axles...).

Last thing you want is to be braking and have the controller blow the fuse or the breaker constantly resetting.