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1972 Bronco Steering Box. Buy or rebuild

Ark Bigfoot

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Joined
Jan 22, 2020
Messages
114
I have a 1972 Bronco with manual steering. I filled the reservoir with oil and it leaked out. I found the seal kit for it but no instructions. Does anyone know where to find the instructions to rebuild or is it better to buy a rebuilt one? Has anyone rebuilt the steering box? While I am working on the steering is there anything else I should look at? I bought it new 50 years ago (97,000 miles) and have done very little to it.
 

DirtDonk

Contributor
Bronco Guru
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Nov 3, 2003
Messages
47,647
When I redid the steering box on my 71 I just bought all the parts locally (at Ford) and put them in myself. Worked great I thought…
Then a few years later for some reason I bought a brand new box (I think it was when I was drilling down into a death wobble) and the brand new one was noticeably better than my rebuilt one. And the rebuilt one included a brand new sector shaft.
Easier to steer and tighter.

The original one however was not in that great of shape when I rebuilt it. It had been rode pretty hard and possibly abused for a couple of years on a Montana hunting ranch.
 

DirtDonk

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Messages
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Since I’m pretty sure you can’t buy brand new anymore, and may not even be able to buy all the hard parts, I think you are going to be on equal footing either way.
I would take yours apart first and look for any physical damage to the surfaces. If it looks rough then buying a rebuilt might not be a bad route to take.
If it looks reasonably good other than for wear and tear and dry seals, I agree build it and see how that works out.
 

FordBronc

Contributor
Bronco's, yea I have a couple.
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Polk County, Missouri
Buy or rent an actual pitman arm puller, do not use a tie rod fork. The following it for F150/F250 steering boxes.
ADVICE 1: Remove the pitman arm. Remove the snap ring. Thread the nut back on just a couple of turns. Crank the engine, and turn the steering wheel from stop to stop, until the pump pressure pops the seals and spacers out. The nut keeps the seals and spacers on the shaft, in correct order and orientation. Yes there will be a lot of fluid, so have a rags, drip pan or bucket VERY handy. A 5 gal bucket (too tall to fit under, cut it shorter) and then have it as close as possible to the bottom of the box.

Keep your old seals and spacers. Lay them out, in order, and oriented correctly, and then photograph them. You may need some of them. The kit can come with different thickness spacers, and might not be the same as the old ones. Fortunately, the spacers can be reused. The nut on pressure removal trick keep you from using a screw to remove both seals and possible save one.

Or another more DETAILED WAY, ADVICE 2 It’s done before with the box on the bench, but I it can be done on vehicle.
Remove the pitman arm from the steering box output shaft (sector shaft), then there's a snap ring that needs to be removed. Once that's out of the way there is a washer, then a seal, then another washer and another seal.
Remove the first washer exposing the first seal. Take a sharp center punch and pierce the seal, screw in a sheet metal screw and pry the seal out. You can do two screws 180 degrees apart too.
Once the first seal is out, remove the second washer and repeat the process. (you can also try just removing the snap ring, (after the pitman arm is off) turn the wheel to the left and start the engine, it will usually blow the whole thing out, both seals and spacers but you better have a huge drain tray under it, then reassemble.)
To replace the seals, apply a thin coating of grease to the inner lip of the seal and a thin coat of sealer to the outside diameter of the seal (I like No. 2 Permatex non-hardening).
Slide the seal over the shaft and take a deep socket that’s just slightly smaller than the OD of the seal and drive the seal in until it seats. Replace the washer then the next seal, washer then snap ring.
Reinstall the pitman arm, hook up the steering linkage and that's it.
If you don't have a socket that's deep enough you can use a piece of pipe or PVC tubing.
The killer on these is getting everything centered. With the exception of the sector shaft Ford basically only sold the internals as an assembly.


F150/F250 Steering box INPUT seal…piece of cake 30 minutes Try dealership OR……Autozone part # 8520 $8.99 in stock. Ford part # F3AZ-3E502-A Input Shaft Seal Kit…Undo bolt at rag joint, remove plastic cover on steering column (in cab) loosen steering column bolts (2 bolts to dash) pull up on column and disconnect rag joint from steering box. Drill small hole in dust seal on steering box & screw a screw in and remove seal remove snap ring, drill hole in seal remove with screw. Replace seal, snap ring, dust seal and reconnect steering column.

I was getting ready to put in new seals (that blew while out on the trail) and once I was closer to it, I seen the crack, that Saginaw box was now junk. Correct bolts...tight bolts...matter. Just some of the joys that PO's leave you to fix later.
 

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FordBronc

Contributor
Bronco's, yea I have a couple.
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Since we are talking rebuild or replace, ever hear of these folks?
https://redheadsteeringgears.com/shop?year=1972&make=Ford&model=Bronco&options=25

Their re-manufacturing process:

  • Machining out the housings and installing needle bearings
  • Flame-spraying or replacing the shafts as needed
  • Installing new control valves on some applications
  • Custom fitting each worm & piston assembly with special ordered, precise over-sized ball bearings.
Other things we do to produce a top quality product include:

  • Install every sector shaft on a lathe to check for straight and true
  • polish the sealing surface to a higher polish than new.
Or Blue Top is another option, but w/PS only I do believe.
https://bluetopsteeringgears-com.3d...7-Ford-Bronco-Saginaw-Steering-Gear_p_25.html
 
Last edited:

hsach

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Members Only
Joined
Apr 19, 2013
Messages
339
Since we are talking rebuild or replace, ever hear of these folks?
https://redheadsteeringgears.com/shop?year=1972&make=Ford&model=Bronco&options=25

Their re-manufacturing process:

  • Machining out the housings and installing needle bearings
  • Flame-spraying or replacing the shafts as needed
  • Installing new control valves on some applications
  • Custom fitting each worm & piston assembly with special ordered, precise over-sized ball bearings.
Other things we do to produce a top quality product include:

  • Install every sector shaft on a lathe to check for straight and true
  • polish the sealing surface to a higher polish than new.
Or Blue Top is another option, but w/PS only I do believe.
https://bluetopsteeringgears-com.3d...7-Ford-Bronco-Saginaw-Steering-Gear_p_25.html
I just bought a redhead steering box for my '78 Bronco. Delivered last week, but haven't installed it yet. It is replacing a Blue Top I installed 1 1/2 years ago, and very few miles. Full disclosure, I did not contact Blue Top about my steering box since it is out of warranty. The Blue Top is leaking from the sector shaft, at a minimum it will need a rebuild of all the seals. When I first received it, I noticed the splines on the sector shaft were marred fairly significantly. I took pictures and contacted them, they said it was fine and not to worry. I didn't worry, and now I am wondering if someone hit the end of the shaft hard enough to damage it externally and internally.

A few years ago I would have reached out to Blue Top to see if there was something that could be done out of warranty, but I didn't do that, and it isn't fair for me to bash them so please don't take it that way. The Blue Top steers fine, definitely better than the stock one. After reading the above information about RedHead's process, I decided to give them a try. Now I just have to decide if I want to send the Blue Top back for a core, or just keep it and rebuild it at later date for a spare. I bet Redhead would get a laugh about a newish Blue Top as a core.
 

FordBronc

Contributor
Bronco's, yea I have a couple.
Joined
Dec 26, 2010
Messages
1,434
Loc.
Polk County, Missouri
An honest user opinion is great and much appreciated. I do not work for either company, before I pulled the trigger on either of them I managed to locate a replacement Sag box and had the shop that found it for me go ahead and swap all the internals from my old one, along with new seals. I knew my old was was NOT going to be a core I could send in to help with the overall cost. 75 for the box and 25 to swap and seal, it was a deal I could not pass up on. Right?
 
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