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1972 Bronco Battery Runs Down Overnight

Ark Bigfoot

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Joined
Jan 22, 2020
Messages
114
I have a 1972 Bronco and I turn off the key but the next day the battery is dead. I installed a disconnect to hold the charge now have decided to correct the issue. I disconnected the wire connector near the voltage regulator and it stopped running down the battery. I checked the voltage at the black/ yellow also yellow with the other end of the test lead to the positive battery post. I got 0 volts on those two but on the GREEN/RED I get 12 volts. Where does the GREEn/RED wire go and what is it used for? https://www.flickr.com/photos/77159845@N07/50269732252/in/dateposted-public/
 

EPB72

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Jul 13, 2019
Messages
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Loc.
Pleasant Hill, CA
seabiscit68 [member here] just posted a few days ago his revised wiring diagrams .i advise look them up..There on the first page of the CHAT section
 

DirtDonk

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Yep, might as well familiarize yourself with the wiring and colors.
But with an overnight drain, it's definitely the charging system either being activated (by that Green w/red wire) or your alternator is failing and the diodes are allowing power to flow through it while the key is off.
The fact that disconnecting the regulator got rid of the problem means your alternator is likely fine, and that it's either the regulator itself, or the wiring.
Your test that found 12v on the Green w/red wire is telling. It should only have power with the key ON.

If you take some readings on that regulator connector, the Yellow wire should have full battery voltage all the time. The Green w/red wire should have 12v with the key ON only. And the Orange wire has a varying voltage output which is telling the alternator how much current to produce.
With 12v and the key OFF, that wire is somehow getting power when it should not. Either from a failing ignition switch, or some sort of short in the wire.

On Broncos, that Green w/red wire has only one job. Power up the regulator.
It runs from the "S" terminal on the regulator directly to the ignition switch. Where it shares a terminal with the Red w/green wire, which is the resistor wire to the ignition coil.
On '75 and later models there are other Green w/red and Red w/green wires, but they are all switched 12v.

Sounds like you need to find out why that wire has power with the key off.

Paul
 

EPB72

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You said when testing you had the test light clamped to the positive battery post?? if so when testing grn/red wire light was on would indicate that wire has a path to ground not 12v, which could be normal since that wire and the ignition feed wire share the same contact at the ignition switch ..clamp test light to neg post retest with light at reg. connector key off and key on
 

71 CA Bronco

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Joined
Nov 25, 2015
Messages
764
With a charged battery. Pull the negative battery cable off (yes negative) and put the test light between the disconnected negative cable and battery. It will light up if you have a draw. Might want to pull the radio fuse before doing this because sometimes the radio clock will pull a small draw.

After you do this pull one fuse at a time until the light goes off. This will identify the circuit that is pulling the juice from your battery. Your not guessing now. Once you identify the problem circuit, diagnosis that circuit only. If it is indeed the charging circuit as Paul mentioned I would start by swapping the simplest, cheapest and most likely part your regulator.

My 2 cents worth....
 
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DirtDonk

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I have a 1972 Bronco
I disconnected the wire connector near the voltage regulator and it stopped running down the battery.
black/ yellow
GREEN/RED I get 12 volts.

I didn't look at your picture before, and assumed you meant the 4-position regulator connector at first. The wire colors almost matched, but I sluffed that off.
The Black w/yellow wire is the main charge wire from the alternator. It eventually runs all the way back up to the battery cable on the starter relay.
The Yellow wire is spliced into the Black wire, and is hot all the time.
The Green w/red as mentioned earlier is turned on with the key.

As CA Bronco mentioned, put the negative clamp of the test light on the negative battery post. Then used the probe tip of the test light on the wires. Your results should change.

Then run the same tests on the three wires at the regulator itself. You should see full power on the Yellow wire, nothing on the Orange wire, and 12v on the Green w/red wire only with the key ON.

Paul
 

71 CA Bronco

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Messages
764
Hey Paul,
That wasn't me that noticed the test light issue. It was EPB72 above. Good eye Mr. EPB72 BTW.

My recommendation was to identify the bad circuit for sure following the method I discussed above before spending anytime on the charging system. I'm sure you are right though. Most likely culprit.

After identify the circuit then follow your guidance. I would just hate to see him tear into the wrong circuit. That might open another can of worms. Don't ask me how I know this can happen. %)
 
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Ark Bigfoot

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Joined
Jan 22, 2020
Messages
114
I checked the voltage at the negative post and had about 1.7 volts. I had a short in the alternator harnesss grounded to either the orange or black/green. I am replacing it but not for sure how to hook up the new one. I think the orange goes to white/clear and the black with green strip goes to red terminal and ground to ground. What I am not sure of is the black terminal at the left in the picture.
https://www.flickr.com/photos/77159845@N07/50302447536/in/dateposted-public/......https://www.flickr.com/photos/77159845@N07/50302392621/in/dateposted-public/
 
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DirtDonk

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On a '72 there is nothing on the stator ("STA") post. Only on '73 and later Broncos did they use that one. Lots of other Fords used it when there was no ammeter in the dash, but Broncos before '73 did not have a stator wire.
But verify those terminals by what letters are next to them.

Stud with red insulator should say BAT and is for the large Black w/yellow wire (not green)
Stud with white insulator IF IT SAYS "FLD" NEXT TO IT, gets the Orange wire.
Stud with black insulator IF IT SAYS "STA" NEXT TO IT, has no wire.

Paul
 
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Ark Bigfoot

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Jan 22, 2020
Messages
114
I check the voltage at the solenoid. I have 12.7 at the left (pos to battery), Red/blue (12.7), Brown wire on the starter side of the solenoid is (12.7). The key is off, all fuses pulled, the ele throttle solenoid is un plugged. The power cable from the new voltage regulator to the fuse box is disconnected. The connector is about 6 inches form the Volt reg. After starting I have 1.9 volts from the disconnected neg cable to the neg post.....With the power connector unplugged it starts and runs. When I connect the power cable the rpms drop slightly with the cable still on the battery. It runs without being hooked to the battery. Indicating part of the alternator is good. Since I replaced the Voltage Reg, and the Solenoid perhaps it is coil or Alternator. Can I test them with a meter or have to replace each one? On the Solenoid I have 12.7 volts at all (4) terminals with the key and the same if the key is off and the power plug is connected. I have 12.7 volts on all the (3) terminal wires on the alternator with the power cable connected. This is using the bare neg battery post no cable connection.
 
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DirtDonk

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Not sure I'm following all of your checks.

I check the voltage at the solenoid. I have 12.7 at the left (pos to battery).

This is correct as it's the battery cable.

Red/blue (12.7).

So this is with the key to the START position only and checking at the wire itself? Or are you checking at the post/stud on the starter relay?

Brown it goes from (.4 to 12.7) and changes every second. Sometimes it will hold the reading.

This is oddly inconsistent. At the wire you should read a relatively steady voltage, that could be dropping from a higher level to a lower level as the resistor wire under the dash heats up and reduces voltage. But it should not oscillate or go back and forth.
Loose connection? Bad wire? Neither will cause your battery to drain, but it can cause trouble down the road with slower starting perhaps.

On the starter side of the solenoid is (12.7).

Again, you're reading this with the key in START, correct?
Otherwise there should be no power there at all.

The key is off, all fuses pulled, the ele throttle solenoid is un plugged.

Since all the fuses are pulled then it has to be a drain on the main Black w/yellow wire. This usually means it's the alternator.
The voltage regulator can do it too, by energizing the alternator. But since that's disconnected it's out of the loop.
What about that Black wire on the alternator? Was it disconnected too?

The power cable from the new voltage regulator to the fuse box is disconnected. The connector is about 6 inches form the Volt reg.

After starting I have 4.2 volts from the disconnected neg cable to the neg post.....

Good test, but I'm not sure what it indicates. Someone should know though.

With the power connector unplugged and it started.

Which power connector?

When I connect the power cable the rpms drop slightly with the cable still on the battery.

This would indicate to me that the alternator is charging and that's what's drawing the engine speed down slightly.

It runs without being hooked to the battery. Indicating part of the alternator is good.

Yes, if the engine stays running with the battery disconnected the alternator is keeping it running. But this is possible even with a bad alternator. The internal diodes failing (the usual cause of a draining battery) don't keep the alternator from charging when it's spinning.

Since I replaced the Voltage Reg, perhaps it is the solenoid or Alternator. How would I check?

A new part does not guarantee the part is good. Remember that and live by those words in this day and age of crappy parts.
But having disconnected it and still having the drain, you've indicated that the regulator is not part of the problem.
The starter relay is not the problem. Can't be since the other small wires were disconnected too. Correct?

If the battery is draining quickly (anywhere from 2hrs to 5hrs usually) it's usually one of two things. A dying battery, or a faulty alternator. Since the battery does not die when it's disconnected (I think I remember you saying that, but I'll have to go re-read the thread to be sure) then it's most likely the alternator, like we were talking about before.

But now the kicker. Didn't you disconnect the alternator's main Black wire when you disconnected that 3-wire connector in your first pic? If so, and the battery is still draining, it can't be the alternator because it's disconnected from the system.
If it's connected, disconnect it and try the overnight drain test.

So to test, you need to disconnect the alternator completely from the system and that will tell you. If it drains the battery overnight all the time with it connected, and does not with it disconnected, then you've found your issue.

Paul
 
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Ark Bigfoot

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I followed your instructions and disconnected the alternator and let it sit for 24 hours. It held the charge.Returned it for it had a lifetime warranty. Installed and it corrected my drain on the battery. As you mentioned early about not taking anything for granted. The Fluke tester 9 volt battery had at sometime been dropped and it snapped the connector wire going into the 9volt battery and would make contact sometimes only causing variable readings. https://www.flickr.com/photos/77159845@N07/50323673848/in/dateposted-public/ The connector was still on the meter when I took the picture. Also Naturally I thought since it kept running after disconnection at the battery post the alternator was ok. I stand and applaud your expertiese! You will be the leader of the next universe.
 

DirtDonk

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Ah shucks, don't make me be the ruler of no universe!:cool: Way too much pressure!?:?
Don't think I've seen that happen with a battery before.
Actually I did mistakenly use the word "good" when talking about the alternator when I should have been specific about it being good (as in still able to put out a charge) but still bad (as in draining).

It's two separate sections/functions I suppose you would call it. The alternator was still capable of putting out at least some bit of charge when it's spinning, hence the engine still running. But when the diodes start failing inside it lets current travel from the battery, through the alternator and to ground. Part of it was still good, but part of it was bad.
It's not a full short-circuit like would melt wires and fry things, but it's a load big enough to drain the battery quickly when the engine is off.

Fantastic that you got it gone though. Congrats.
Feels good to not have to worry about one thing at least.%)

Paul
 

sprdv1

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I followed your instructions and disconnected the alternator and let it sit for 24 hours. It held the charge.Returned it for it had a lifetime warranty. Installed and it corrected my drain on the battery. As you mentioned early about not taking anything for granted. The Fluke tester 9 volt battery had at sometime been dropped and it snapped the connector wire going into the 9volt battery and would make contact sometimes only causing variable readings. https://www.flickr.com/photos/77159845@N07/50323673848/in/dateposted-public/ The connector was still on the meter when I took the picture. Also Naturally I thought since it kept running after disconnection at the battery post the alternator was ok. I stand and applaud your expertiese! You will be the leader of the next universe.

that's right..

Why Not you get to keep the ruler of earth. Megan Fox (Jupiter ascending)

too funny..
 

DirtDonk

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Whoa, didn't look at it from that angle!:eek:
I think that was Mila Kunis though. Even better!;D

Paul
 
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