1965 fastback mustang

[Bronco73]

I am selling my pride and joy. A 1965 fastback mustang that I my self restored about 4 years ago and have hardly driven it since then. No more than a 1500 miles has been put on this car since its completion.

The car was rebuilt from the ground up, inside and out. Nothing was left untouched. The 94 302 motor and 5-speed trans has about 14K miles. Motor and trans are from a 94 GT. The motor has Trick Flow Track Heat heads with a 750DP Holley carb and an X303 cam. A 9 inch rear axle with a 3L70, trac loc gear mounted in a War case. The 3.70 gear whines and I will install a brand new gear set and let the new owner select the gear ratio of choice. The third member will be built with a solid crush sleeve which the 3.70 gear set has as well.

The suspension is from Mustang Plus, mid eye 4.5 rear leafs with 620 1 inch drop front coils. Shelby drop done to the upper control arms. KYB shocks and all new ball joints, tie rods and steering parts. I have the Shelby quick steer pieces but have not installed them, they are brand new.

The rear brakes are stock and the front disk brakes are the Granada/Versailles swap.

The instrument cluster was swapped to a 66 style to get the factory gauges over the idiot lights of the 65 style.

The car is grabber blue in color with white stripes. Pictures are available, just ask. The car was stripped inside and out and painted inside and out. Every piece that could be removed was removed and either restored or replaced with new.

I have a new windshield but have not installed it but will before the car is picked up, if sold. I need to install a new driver’s door handle which I have bought new. The old one had the button fall out of it so I bought a new door handle set. The car has no radio. Two speed wipers. Which I have yet to install the wiper arms, never drive in the rain. The car has factory ford back up lights, R model front end and a Mustang plus shifter for the 5-speed trans. The speed-o bounces at slower speeds but reads correctly. I need to pull the new cable and grease it with the correct grease. The left turn signal will not cancel on its own. I think I covered everything.

The car has had a few floor board patches, not complete sections! A couple of patches in the inner fenders like one on each side. The car has a factory quarter panel on the driver’s side and a skin on the pass. side of the car. Factory ford inner wheel tubs and after market outer wheel tubs. The trunk floor/drops where replaced as well. The fenders have no patches and the hood is an older fiberglass hood with out the metal reinforcements. One door has one patch and the other door had two patches installed. The car was stripped to bare metal, ospho, epoxy primed and painted with PPG BC/CC. The stripes are painted in single stage.

Serious buyers and serious offers only please!!! I will not give this car away. This car is one of a kind. Jump in and drive anywhere. The car is spotless inside and out!!!!! It will be sold this time around!!!

I can provide pics of the restoration and details of any kind. Just ask. I have old photos of the sheet metal replacement that I can try to scan in.

Asking $28,500 bob

Follow the link below to a few pics of the car.

http://cleveland.craigslist.org/car/525948786.html

 

[grauerfam]

I like the old 65 and 66 Mustangs. Kinda lean more towards the convertibles but those fastbacks are cool too. I need to study up on them before laying down any hard cash ( not even close to 28Gs ) - what are some good web sites to get on? Any golden rules to go buy when looking at prospective project cars? Good luck with selling your car.

 

[Bronco73]

Heres the best site to go to http://forums.vintage-mustang.com/fusionbb.php?

There's a ton of things to look for when buying a vintage stang. The cowl is known to rust and leak and then you have your normal rust. Do a little research and I a m sure you will find that my asking price is not a bad price at all given the level of work done to this car. the inside was stripped and painted the same color as the outside, grabber blue. The underside was stripped and painted as well. Everything was sealed with PPG expoxy primmer. You name it I replaced it with new or restored it to new condition. Plus a rust bucket of this type alone witll run between $5K and $10K.

if you have any questions regarding another car or mine feel free to ask.

 

[grauerfam]

Thanks for the link. Your price does'nt seem to be out of line from what I've seen. I just don't have that much to drop, although, just like the Bronco, sometimes you can make out better just getting one that is already done. I've got my eye on a 66 convertible that is 80% done and the owner is ready to move on. The guy is asking 8K and that's with a 6 cyl/ auto. I'd want a v-8, 5 sp, disc brakes, ps,..... How hard is a v-8 swap or is it better just to find one that came that way to start?

 

[Bronco73]

It's hard to say if it's worth doing the swap or not. Many factors are invovled. But the main thing is price. The 6cly cars have a much lower selling value to them even with the v8 conversion done to them. Based on that I would ask what is 80% done, how much will it cost to build the car the way you want it verses buying one done?

As for me I could care less about the resale value if i can buy the car cheap enough. What does a clean already finish 6cly vert go for? Compare that to the asking price and the cost of finishing it. If the numbers work out I would buy the 80% completed project and finish it myself as long as the over cost is lower than buying one done. I would also have to verify the work done on the car was done correctly. To many projects out there that people have screwed up because they think they can weld.

I would check to see how much sheet metal work has be done, does the cowl leak, door gaps, what products and prep work have they done during the first 80% of work done. nothing worse than having to redo anothers work.

I will soon have front disk brake brackets made to run 13 inch rotors up front and I think I still have a few rear ford disk brake set ups, just have to make or buy the spacers needed for that swap.

 

[Bronco73]

Will consider trade for a nice DD EB and cash for the fastback. Also consider a 2000 or newer R6 sport bike plus cash for the fastback.

 

[minimatt]

Thanks for the link. Your price does'nt seem to be out of line from what I've seen. I just don't have that much to drop, although, just like the Bronco, sometimes you can make out better just getting one that is already done. I've got my eye on a 66 convertible that is 80% done and the owner is ready to move on. The guy is asking 8K and that's with a 6 cyl/ auto. I'd want a v-8, 5 sp, disc brakes, ps,..... How hard is a v-8 swap or is it better just to find one that came that way to start?

V-8 swap is more than just a motor swap. The majority of the front-end will need to be changed (steering linkage, spindles, springs, brakes, etc.) the entire rearend will need to be changed as well. There will of course be all of the little stuff that will need to addressed like wiring, throttle linkage, fuel lines and so forth. Auto-to-5 speed is a little involved, but there is nothing that can't be overcome with a little time and money.

If everything is as advertised, 28k doesn't seem out of line for this particular car.

 

[Bronco73]

OBO one is always willing to deal.

 

[grauerfam]

V-8 swap is more than just a motor swap. The majority of the front-end will need to be changed (steering linkage, spindles, springs, brakes, etc.) the entire rearend will need to be changed as well. There will of course be all of the little stuff that will need to addressed like wiring, throttle linkage, fuel lines and so forth. Auto-to-5 speed is a little involved, but there is nothing that can't be overcome with a little time and money.

Sounds like alot of the front end rebuild would be addressed in the process of upgrading to disc brakes and powersteering. Do the motor mounts bolt on or do the 6 cyl ones need to be cut off and V-8 ones welded back on like the Bronco? Does the rear need to be changed because of strengh or just because of the # of wheel studs? I guess I figured the swap would be about the same or similar to what you'd encounter doing it on a Bronco.

 

[minimatt]

Yes, going to disc brakes pretty much forces you into converting the frontend to V-8 style. V-8 and 6 cyl. power steering are two different animals. I managed to break the 6 cyl rearend with a mildly built 200 and an automatic, so my opinion is you will need to upgrade the rearend for strength reasons. Besides, you wouldn't want 5 lug front and 4 lug rear wheels. Motor mount perches are a bolt-on deal. You can convert 6 cyl./auto to V-8/5-speed without drilling or welding anything, with the possible exception of the bellhousing needing to be drilled to install a fulcrum for the clutch linkage to work. The T-5 shifter will line up with the automatic shifter hole in the floor, too.

 

[grauerfam]

OK, so lets say I talk this guy down to 6K. Give me some #s for some of these upgrades. Figure kit prices for the disc conversion, junkyard power steering stuff, 5.0 w/ 5 sp out of wrecked/rusted ____ year mustang ( carb pref. )

Disc conversion _________________

power steering __________________

motor/ T-5 __________________

9" rear ( used) __________________

nice suspension __________________ ( general use )

Best Mustang vendor?

 

[minimatt]

First off, it isn't as simple as doing the same thing on a Bronco. Power steering will be pricey because it will need to come off of an early Mustang or aftermarket rack and pinion. You will need to buy everything to convert the frontend to V-8, then buy the disc brake kit, which must include a master cylinder. You will need new wheels and tires because of going to 5 lug and 13" wheels/tires won't clear the disc brakes. You can spend as much or as little on a V-8 as you want, but the 5-speed, bellhousing, clutch, pedal assembly, shifter and associated linkage can easily run well over a thousand dollars. You will need the frame perches , motor mounts, trans cross-member, throttle linkage and radiator for the V-8 as an absolute minimum for the conversion. You will be better off getting an 8" rear-end out of a 64-66 Mustang than a 9". There are very few 9" rear-ends that are the correct width for a 64-66. When you do find one it will be BIG bucks. If you are dead-set on a 9", I would get a new one from Currie or Moser. As far as vendors go, I have had good luck with Mustangs Plus in Stockton, CA. They are into the performance/Resto-Mod thing. FWIW, if I were to do what you are proposing, I would budget $12k as an absolute minimum and wouldn't be surprised if it was closer to $20k - that is in addition to the purchase price of the car and doing all of the work myself.

After some research, it should become pretty obvious that it would be hard to duplicate the car advertised here for what he is asking for it.

 

[grauerfam]

Adds up quick! Thanks for the info. Hey, some body buy this guys car!

 

[Bronco73]

An option for the 9 inch housing is one can weld the 8 inch axle tubes into a 9 inch banjo style housing which ends up looking just like a factory 9 inch for a 65/66. Thats what I did with mine. Of course the cost of having this done can be pricey as well. A real deal 9 inch will run $1000 for a 65/66. Keep in mind that if you install any axle with the larger dia. axle tubes, it will lower the rear of the car. Just some food for thought.

 

[mp]

One of the few cars that could force me to sell my Broncos. Looks great and good luck with the sale.

 

[Bronco73]

I hope to find a nice DD EB if and when I sell my car. The rest of the money will be used for school.

 

[Bronco73]

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