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Oh yeah.. It's absolutely perfect now. It turned out that the ball joints were new obviously and super tight which was not allowing the spindle to turn free enough. So the wheel would just never return to center. I corrected it and it was like a miracle cure.. :) Drives like a dream now.

Thanks a lot for the replies! I really appreciate you guys taking the time to offer some advice from your personal experiences. I think I have a 45k-55k machine. I'm trying to look at it totally objectively and not base my own opinion off sentimental or the amount of money I have spent on...

I couldn't agree more.. And thanks for the input. I'm wondering if the area of the country or time of year affects price much? Is Florida better than Arizona etc? Obviously more survivors in the south west than the Midwest. What's your take on Ebay? Seems like manyon there but not sure if...

I'm sure this has been talked about at length here but I was wondering if anyone can help me with some information. What auctions seem to be bringing the best numbers for EB's? Are certain auction companies or locations doing better than others? I'm sure someone here has been tracking these...

Is that a bolt on cross member then? No welding to the frame?

Actually a top loader was my first choice but I wanted the over drive that the 5 speed offers. Had no idea that the top loader could be set up like that.. I'd definitely do that over the nv3550. I've gotta look into that for sure.. Way less money too. Thanks for the tip! I need a bolt on...

Thanks for all the feedback. I've been kicking around the Nv3550 for sometime too and it's definitely on the list. What's been keeping me in the 3 speed is I kinda like the feel of the old school trans. Plus it's nice to just put it in second gear and go most of the time around town. That...

I never take this thing off road so I'm not worried about that. I'm not gonna be abusing the hell out of it but I'll definitely be getting on the throttle and dropping the clutch from time to time. The 3 speed is my concern too as I've never even put the truck in 4wd yet. Should my 74 have...

So looking for opinions. Going to be building a new 351w for my baby. It's a freshly restored, totally used on the street Bronco. Mild lift, front and rear sway bars and very good Street manners. Thinking about going a little nuts with a stroker kit, cnc ported aluminum heads, etc...

That's a good thought and definitely the next thing I'll look at. I've gotta get the carb on the bench and have a good look at it. I'm used to racing carbs with none of this pesky choke business in the way.

Thanks for the reply. Yea I've backed off the idle screw like you described and it just seems like as I'm driving periodically the choke must be closing up a little from time to time because the idle comes up and I have to kick it down. Just annoying.. Don't know what the issue is. :/

Has anybody tried to just remove the electric choke mechanism all together? This thing has been a big pain in the a$$ for me. My bronco is only driven during summer months so "warming up" isn't a issue for me. Any thoughts? Am I just being lazy? ;) thanks for any help.

I have 5 nearly brand new Mickey Thompson polished 17" wheels with also nearly brand new 280/70/R17 BFGoodrich All-Terrains mounted up on them. I have 5 total (spare included). These have around 1,000 on-road miles only. I am looking for 15x10, poished aluminum wheels with 33x12.50R15...

No doubt! I was surprised how much difference a little bit of adjustment made.. So glad it's dialed in. On to the next little issue. :)

Thanks for the help.. I got it figured out. Must not be a newer engine because it's mounted tight and flex isn't the problem. I just needed to shorten the rod passing through the floor and I think I finally found the sweet spot. Thanks again for the help! This forum has been such a big help...

Also, FYI the clutch and all parts are new as this bronco is a fresh restoration. Thanks again for the help guys!

I can't quite seem to get the clutch engagement point right. No matter what I do adjusting the rod that contacts the fork, the clutch doesn't engage until the pedal is near the top. Is there something that can be done with the clutch rod that passes through the floor? I tried to make it fit...

I just ordered an adjustable link from WH.. Hopefully that will help. I think the PO did not make it long enough to accommodate the body lift. Thanks for the help!

Yes, we tried that and can never get the pedal up against the stop. Without yanking up on it from inside the cab. My concern is that with the body lift someone modified the rod leading from the pedal down through the floor. I wonder if it was lengthened make up for the body lift and either...

Yeah.. I see the holes in the frame and on the clutch fork lever but I didn't realize the spring had to be bent or adjusted to fit.. What about the pedal position itself. My pedal does not come all the way back up to the rubber stop. Regardless of where I position the rubber stop. Also, How...