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Opinion on axels…

DirtDonk

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Nov 3, 2003
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I used to have tons of them, and Maxwell House can myself as well. But most of them finally turned to rust dust, so I’ve been converting over to anything that’s heavy wall, clear, and rust proof.
For awhile, those big mouth, ring clamp, plastic nut jars that Costco sold were perfect!
 

lars

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That's where I ended up. (...Every time)
And the 60 is certainly supported by OX. Eaton E-locker too. Even the Yukon Zip locker is bulletproof in a 60. Can't get that with a 9 inch.

I try not to pay more than $75. for a bare Dana 60 housing. The one in the pic came from an International Travelall. I paid $100, but it came with a new set of 4.88's and a full spool.

And yeah, I bought the 5 lug Hutchinson Rock Monsters. So I'm gonna be 5 lug for a while.
So James, you obviously prefer a Dana 60 over a Ford 9". Other than possible (likely) cost savings, any other reasons? I realize this has been beaten to death for decades and I could just search, blah blah. But I'm interested in your take. Ground clearance isn't a big deal to me, for the way I use my Bronco (much off highway travel but not Rubiconesque trails). Unsprung weight does matter. Strength and cost matter.

For the record I have an approximately 2005 vintage 31 spline ARB in my 9", Richmond 4.56 gears, Currie clone of a Daytona case, a no-long-available heavy duty Currie housing and Explorer brakes. I was eyeing it yesterday, wondering how much longer the third member might last. Have probably 100k+ miles on it now, mostly connected to my previous 5.0 but now my 408 with double the torque. A 60 like you described might be an attractive and potentially more affordable option.
 
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Slick67

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Joined
Mar 15, 2024
Messages
82
I don’t think the axle shaft cares what brand/style the differential is.
The Dana 60 differential has its specifications, the outer end with bearings, flanges and stud count has its specifications, and you simply have custom axles made to match both.
So you can choose whatever Dana 60 differential you want in the center, and get your five lug axles with 9 inch wheel bearings and you’re good to go.
Or just the inners, if you can find a 60 with standard bearings as opposed to full floater ends.
My previous comment was directed at the “and done“ aspect of the 1969’s comment. It’d be the same for a Dana 60, Sterling, or 14-bolt.
Unless you are planning to use eight lug wheels all the way around, it’s not done until you have custom axles made, and the ends redone to match.

Really, the only important things in that photo are the Yuban cans. Have a whole collection myself!
What is a yuban can?
 

jamesroney

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Sep 11, 2007
Messages
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Loc.
Fremont, CA
So James, you obviously prefer a Dana 60 over a Ford 9". Other than possible (likely) cost savings, any other reasons? I realize this has been beaten to death for decades and I could just search, blah blah. But I'm interested in your take. Ground clearance isn't a big deal to me, for the way I use my Bronco (much off highway travel but not Rubiconesque trails). Unsprung weight does matter. Strength and cost matter.

For the record I have an approximately 2005 vintage 31 spline ARB in my 9", Richmond 4.56 gears, Currie clone of a Daytona case, a no-long-available heavy duty Currie housing and Explorer brakes. I was eyeing it yesterday, wondering how much longer the third member might last. Have probably 100k+ miles on it now, mostly connected to my previous 5.0 but now my 408 with double the torque. A 60 like you described might be an attractive and potentially more affordable option.
Ah yes…the Classic “junkyard axle” riddle! It’s my favorite! I have no particular love for the D60. But in the arena of competing priorities, the 60 wins in a number of use cases. The whole discussion starts and ends with lug nuts.

As soon as you are willing to have 8 lug nuts, the 60 falls out of contention, and the GM 14 bolt is the clear winner. But not for the reason that most people think. It’s because of the availability of the lunchbox Detroit for $200, or free from the M1009 CUCV.

So once we decide that we must have 5 lugs, (or 6) but basically a 5.5 bolt circle…the full float solution space is no longer available. There are exactly zero low cost full float 5.5 bolt circle floaters out there. Even though my picture above shows one.

A. Are we in semi-float solution space?

Now to lockers. The selectable locker is the single most expensive component of any axle build. If you are willing to put up with poor handling, and strange noises, the full Detroit, or a spool makes a HUGE DIFFERENCE. If you can live with a spool, the 9 inch is not only a great contender…it actually dominates.

For years, nascar teams made cheap Detroits available for the 31 spline 9 inch. $200 all day long. A Detroit or spool is the only traction Device that can withstand the durability of the 9 inch ring and pinion. An ARB is close, but the spatial limitations do not allow for adequate travel of the engagement coupler. Since the coupler can’t travel, and since you need a lead-in chamfer to enable shifting…it ends up running on the chamfer, and requiring huge application pressure to stay engaged. So they slip. Once they slip a little, they go on to slip a lot. You can imagine if I only let you shift your transmission halfway into gear. It’s the same effect. ARB “fixed” it by telling you to increase application pressure. But that has proven inadequate. So their ultimate solution is a $2k “comp” unit…which is default engaged, and air unlocked. It works well enough…but it violates the “low cost” requirement. ARB has done an admirable job of marketing, so nobody knows there’s a problem. Except for competitors at KOH, who all know it’s a problem.

B. What kind of locker do you have?

The Dana 60 has no such constraint. The available space within the ring gear is cavernous, and all problems are solved with mass. I think the ARB for the 60 weighs 53 lbs, and the 9 inch is 30 lbs. it looks like the 60 carrier swallowed and ate the 9 inch.

As with all competent design criteria, the failure modes need to be considered. Not so much when it will fail, but how does it fail? What breaks first, and what breaks never? Too many engineers do not consider test to failure. Too many enthusiasts consider only “use to failure.”

C. What have you already spent?
If you already own a 3.25 inch big bore Nodular case with gears and a 35 spline carrier, and axles…you are already committed. But if you own a c7aw-e 2.891 inch grey iron case with 3.50’s and a 28 spline open diff…totally different story. I only recommend the 60 for people starting from stock. The price of a custom case, a trussed or fabbed housing,a locker, and a set of axles, and a pinion support take you WAY past the cost of a junkyard 60.

I used to try to find the 66-68 5 lug Ford 60 just to get the 4.10’s and the power lock posi. Even with 30 spline axles, they were unbreakable. 8 lug full float drum brakes are heavy, and unnecessary. So there’s that.

The biggest problem with the 9 inch is the bench race morons that look solely at ring and pinion strength and declare it “as strong as a 60. Maybe stronger”. Yeah, probably. But as soon as you put a differential in it, (other than the Detroit) it turns into junk.

In your case, you are “pot committed”. Your set up is good for at least 500,000 miles with minimal maintenance. A couple of $2.00 o-rings rings, and You are good for another 500k after that.
 
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jamesroney

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What is a yuban can?
A device that allows you to sort nuts, bolts, and washers in a container that will not set fire to itself when exposed to weld splatter, grinding sparks, and cutting torch flumes.

It can be used to hold and store liquid soaked rags. It can also be used as a drain pan for various liquids. This somewhat reduces its effectiveness against open flame.

They used to appear magically for free about once a month when you walked thru the kitchen.

Also available in Folgers, Maxwell House, MJB, Chock full o’ Nuts and other colors. Still available from Cafe Du Monde, but only in mostly useless 1 quart size. Comes with a convenient plastic lid that disintegrates long before the service life of the container.

Also useful for temporary step stool uses, and can serve as a post jack extension when inverted. Combined With a cardboard slip sheet, is useful for trapping both crawling and flying insects. Also an excellent quench bucket for small parts.

I suppose it can be used for coffee as well.
 
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Slick67

Jr. Member
Joined
Mar 15, 2024
Messages
82
So!
🤔
I actually have a line on a whole rolling chassis with a duff’s suspension on it, wheels and frame.
🤷‍♂️
I’d just be use’n the axels and suspension then I guess sell the wheels and frame. (42” on bead locks)
BUT!
They are the 50 lug full width axels and unknown spline count with unknown locker situation.😬
They DO have discs on them now tho!!!

Should I get it if I can get the whole thing for like $7k?
 
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Slick67

Jr. Member
Joined
Mar 15, 2024
Messages
82
So!
🤔
I actually have a line on a whole rolling chassis with a duff’s suspension on it, wheels and frame.
🤷‍♂️
I’d just be use’n the axels and suspension then I guess sell the wheels and frame. (42” on bead locks)
BUT!
They are the 50 lug full width axels and unknown spline count with unknown locker situation.😬
They DO have discs on them now tho!!!

Should I get it if I can get the whole thing for like $7k?
And should I keep them 12 lug or no way to cheaply make them 5?
 

lars

Contributor
Been here awhile
Joined
Jun 29, 2001
Messages
3,066
Loc.
NorCal flatlands
A device that allows you to sort nuts, bolts, and washers in a container that will not set fire to itself when exposed to weld splatter, grinding sparks, and cutting torch flumes.

It can be used to hold and store liquid soaked rags. It can also be used as a drain pan for various liquids. This somewhat reduces its effectiveness against open flame.

They used to appear magically for free about once a month when you walked thru the kitchen.

Also available in Folgers, Maxwell House, MJB, Chock full o’ Nuts and other colors. Still available from Cafe Du Monde, but only in mostly useless 1 quart size. Comes with a convenient plastic lid that disintegrates long before the service life of the container.

Also useful for temporary step stool uses, and can serve as a post jack extension when inverted. Combined With a cardboard slip sheet, is useful for trapping both crawling and flying insects. Also an excellent quench bucket for small parts.

I suppose it can be used for coffee as well.
OMG was that ever funny. Thank you.

All of my cans (mostly, but not exclusively, Yuban) came from my parents, and mostly when I was growing up. I figure many of mine are at least 50 years old. I don't care if there are "better" solutions. Rust isn't an issue in my case because they never sit out with water in them. Just (usually) oily stuff. And yes, they make superb micro-drain pans! As a bonus, my remind me of my mom and dad all the time, decades after their passing. Doesn't get much better than that.
 

lars

Contributor
Been here awhile
Joined
Jun 29, 2001
Messages
3,066
Loc.
NorCal flatlands
Ah yes…the Classic “junkyard axle” riddle! It’s my favorite! I have no particular love for the D60. But in the arena of competing priorities, the 60 wins in a number of use cases. The whole discussion starts and ends with lug nuts.

As soon as you are willing to have 8 lug nuts, the 60 falls out of contention, and the GM 14 bolt is the clear winner. But not for the reason that most people think. It’s because of the availability of the lunchbox Detroit for $200, or free from the M1009 CUCV.

So once we decide that we must have 5 lugs, (or 6) but basically a 5.5 bolt circle…the full float solution space is no longer available. There are exactly zero low cost full float 5.5 bolt circle floaters out there. Even though my picture above shows one.

A. Are we in semi-float solution space?

Now to lockers. The selectable locker is the single most expensive component of any axle build. If you are willing to put up with poor handling, and strange noises, the full Detroit, or a spool makes a HUGE DIFFERENCE. If you can live with a spool, the 9 inch is not only a great contender…it actually dominates.

For years, nascar teams made cheap Detroits available for the 31 spline 9 inch. $200 all day long. A Detroit or spool is the only traction Device that can withstand the durability of the 9 inch ring and pinion. An ARB is close, but the spatial limitations do not allow for adequate travel of the engagement coupler. Since the coupler can’t travel, and since you need a lead-in chamfer to enable shifting…it ends up running on the chamfer, and requiring huge application pressure to stay engaged. So they slip. Once they slip a little, they go on to slip a lot. You can imagine if I only let you shift your transmission halfway into gear. It’s the same effect. ARB “fixed” it by telling you to increase application pressure. But that has proven inadequate. So their ultimate solution is a $2k “comp” unit…which is default engaged, and air unlocked. It works well enough…but it violates the “low cost” requirement. ARB has done an admirable job of marketing, so nobody knows there’s a problem. Except for competitors at KOH, who all know it’s a problem.

B. What kind of locker do you have?

The Dana 60 has no such constraint. The available space within the ring gear is cavernous, and all problems are solved with mass. I think the ARB for the 60 weighs 53 lbs, and the 9 inch is 30 lbs. it looks like the 60 carrier swallowed and ate the 9 inch.

As with all competent design criteria, the failure modes need to be considered. Not so much when it will fail, but how does it fail? What breaks first, and what breaks never? Too many engineers do not consider test to failure. Too many enthusiasts consider only “use to failure.”

C. What have you already spent?
If you already own a 3.25 inch big bore Nodular case with gears and a 35 spline carrier, and axles…you are already committed. But if you own a c7aw-e 2.891 inch grey iron case with 3.50’s and a 28 spline open diff…totally different story. I only recommend the 60 for people starting from stock. The price of a custom case, a trussed or fabbed housing,a locker, and a set of axles, and a pinion support take you WAY past the cost of a junkyard 60.

I used to try to find the 66-68 5 lug Ford 60 just to get the 4.10’s and the power lock posi. Even with 30 spline axles, they were unbreakable. 8 lug full float drum brakes are heavy, and unnecessary. So there’s that.

The biggest problem with the 9 inch is the bench race morons that look solely at ring and pinion strength and declare it “as strong as a 60. Maybe stronger”. Yeah, probably. But as soon as you put a differential in it, (other than the Detroit) it turns into junk.

In your case, you are “pot committed”. Your set up is good for at least 500,000 miles with minimal maintenance. A couple of $2.00 o-rings rings, and You are good for another 500k after that.
Thanks! I have wondered what about the 9" version made the ARB weaker. Mine, plus the one in my front Dana 44 are the only ones I've ever had. The 9" ARB replaced a Detroit. I got tired of the quirks. If my 9" ARB grenades I'd give serious consideration to a 60 just to get another (stronger) version. Everything on my current rear axle is around 20 years old at least, so it's not like I routinely throw money in that direction. And yeah if that happens it would be built pretty much exactly as the one you described: 5 lug semi-float, Explorer brakes, ARB etc.
 

jamesroney

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Sr. Member
Joined
Sep 11, 2007
Messages
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Loc.
Fremont, CA
OMG was that ever funny. Thank you.

All of my cans (mostly, but not exclusively, Yuban) came from my parents, and mostly when I was growing up. I figure many of mine are at least 50 years old. I don't care if there are "better" solutions. Rust isn't an issue in my case because they never sit out with water in them. Just (usually) oily stuff. And yes, they make superb micro-drain pans! As a bonus, my remind me of my mom and dad all the time, decades after their passing. Doesn't get much better than that.
I obtained many cans from my in-laws. I suspect the vintage is similar. I was totally unaware that the early cans had a picture of a lady on it. My Brother in Law would not give me the rest of his dad's garage cans because he wanted to keep the "older one's with the lady on it..."

This initiated a brief investigation resulting in the confirmation of a woman's face on the side of the can. Been using those cans for 30 years, and I never caught that...
 

jamesroney

Contributor
Sr. Member
Joined
Sep 11, 2007
Messages
1,752
Loc.
Fremont, CA
So!
🤔
I actually have a line on a whole rolling chassis with a duff’s suspension on it, wheels and frame.
🤷‍♂️
I’d just be use’n the axels and suspension then I guess sell the wheels and frame. (42” on bead locks)
BUT!
They are the 50 lug full width axels and unknown spline count with unknown locker situation.😬
They DO have discs on them now tho!!!

Should I get it if I can get the whole thing for like $7k?
no.

Never buy axle components if you don't know EXACTLY what you are getting. Anyone that puts 42's on a 5 lug axle has made poor life choices, and should not be rewarded.

Come back and post exactly what you are looking at...and I can give better advice. $7k might be a good deal. It might be junk.
 

lars

Contributor
Been here awhile
Joined
Jun 29, 2001
Messages
3,066
Loc.
NorCal flatlands
I obtained many cans from my in-laws. I suspect the vintage is similar. I was totally unaware that the early cans had a picture of a lady on it. My Brother in Law would not give me the rest of his dad's garage cans because he wanted to keep the "older one's with the lady on it..."

This initiated a brief investigation resulting in the confirmation of a woman's face on the side of the can. Been using those cans for 30 years, and I never caught that...
I did not know that. Will be checking mine next time I get to my hangar. Which will be in a couple of hours, except that She Who Expects To Be Flown Somewhere may not be pleased if I get distracted (again, as usual).
 
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Slick67

Jr. Member
Joined
Mar 15, 2024
Messages
82

no.

Never buy axle components if you don't know EXACTLY what you are getting. Anyone that puts 42's on a 5 lug axle has made poor life choices, and should not be rewarded.

Come back and post exactly what you are looking at...and I can give better advice. $7k might be a good deal. It might be junk.
It’s on a 12 bolt 3/4 ton full width front and rear setup now. I believe 5.13 gearing, unknown locker, unknown spline count. Disc brake. No title 70’s frame. Duff’s monster coil 4-link front & rear.
**but the meat & potato bout it! It’s got the dana60’s I’d be after, set up with duff’s 4 link I’m also after.

Can you narrow the axel shafts? Or are those cost respline itive / just buy new after you narrow the housing?
 
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Slick67

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Joined
Mar 15, 2024
Messages
82
no.

Never buy axle components if you don't know EXACTLY what you are getting. Anyone that puts 42's on a 5 lug axle has made poor life choices, and should not be rewarded.

Come back and post exactly what you are looking at...and I can give better advice. $7k might be a good deal. It might be junk.
Sent pm👍
 

jamesroney

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Messages
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It’s on a 12 bolt 3/4 ton full width front and rear setup now. I believe 5.13 gearing, unknown locker, unknown spline count. Disc brake. No title 70’s frame. Duff’s monster coil 4-link front & rear.
**but the meat & potato bout it! It’s got the dana60’s I’d be after, set up with duff’s 4 link I’m also after.

Can you narrow the axel shafts? Or are those cost respline itive / just buy new after you narrow the housing?
What is a "12 bolt 3/4 ton" you lost me.

If it has a pair of factory dana 60's then you don't want it. They never made a vehicle with a pair of dana 60's that wasn't junk. (With the notable exception of the oddball Quigley Econoline 350 with the 4x4 conversion...)

And it sounds like you want 8 lug. If so, your rear axle needs to start with "14 bolt" And your front should start with "snow-fighter" if you are going to narrow it.
 
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Slick67

Jr. Member
Joined
Mar 15, 2024
Messages
82
What is a "12 bolt 3/4 ton" you lost me.

If it has a pair of factory dana 60's then you don't want it. They never made a vehicle with a pair of dana 60's that wasn't junk. (With the notable exception of the oddball Quigley Econoline 350 with the 4x4 conversion...)

And it sounds like you want 8 lug. If so, your rear axle needs to start with "14 bolt" And your front should start with "snow-fighter" if you are going to narrow it.
I sent you the link to it

It’s a bronco project rolling chassis
 
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Slick67

Jr. Member
Joined
Mar 15, 2024
Messages
82
What is a "12 bolt 3/4 ton" you lost me.

If it has a pair of factory dana 60's then you don't want it. They never made a vehicle with a pair of dana 60's that wasn't junk. (With the notable exception of the oddball Quigley Econoline 350 with the 4x4 conversion...)

And it sounds like you want 8 lug. If so, your rear axle needs to start with "14 bolt" And your front should start with "snow-fighter" if you are going to narrow it.
Hahaha
My bad it IS 8 lug… I never counted them🤷‍♂️
 

Colo77Bronco

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I mean, ‘need’ NO!

But 😬 90% of what’s on it is un-needed. I am KINDA building it to the standards of how those $150k rigs (that also will NEVER go off road) SHOULD be built.

But I just am struggling as to where to draw that line……
From that point of view, if you don't do it then you just did what they did.
 

Yeller

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Rogers County Oklahoma
I have the exact axle that @jamesroney has in another truck, except it has a grizzly and 11” Ford drum brakes, but soon to be explorer discs.

But agree, 14 bolt for the win. If building an Offroad, show and go truck why narrow them? That’s my opinion anyway.
 
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