Swapping front end, D44, lots of questions

[JWMcCrary]

Is it just me or does everybody else have total hell everytime they tackle a project? I rebuilt a D44 with new gears and bearings and was swapping out the old D44, also adding BC Bronco's arms, Bilstein 7100 shocks, etc. at the same time.

#1 - I couldn't get the Yukon axles to fit through the knuckles without dremeling the opening some. Is this normal? I hope so...because they are in.
I took the grease fitting out of the caps, and dremeled just enough to get them in. then put the grease fittings back in. (Yukon joints)

#2 - There is not a bolt hole in the end of the axles like the stock ones. So the snap ring is basically the only thing keeping the Warn hub on there ?? Is this correct?

#3 - The BC Broncos arms are adjustable...can somebody give me a tip on eye balling the caster until I can get the front end aligned? point the yoke at the tranfer case ?? I am using the C bushings for a 3 1/2 inch lift.

#4 - My Wildhorses shock hoops have tabs to mount the shocks. The eye hole is turned wrong on my Bilsteins to use those tabs. Did I get the wrong shocks ?? I thought of drilling a hole through the hoop and using a long bolt to mount? Anybody else done that?

#5 - Ball joints. I replaced all the ball joints. I tightened the bottom as tight as I could get it. Then run the spanner down snug on top, then tightened the top nut as tight as I could...Was that the proper method? They were Moog joints and are pressed in all the way..couldn't get the snap rings on, is that normal?

Thanks in advance Guys...I'm sure I have forgot something

 

[chris]

1. You got it right.

2. Don't need the bolt or the snap ring. If you can get the ring on go ahead and do it but most people don't run either.

3. Can't help there.

4. Can't help here.

5. There are special torque values for the nuts to be tightened to. You may have to pull out a service manual to get them right. Most people don't run the snap ring here either but again, if you can get it on use it.

 

[SaddleUp]

1: Yes, this is normal. Especially with the Super Joints. I used a grinder to knock off about 1/64" from the inside of the knuckle in 4 spots at every 90 degrees. I also still need to pull the fittings to get them in and out.

2: Many of us don't use the snap ring or bolt in ours for the same reason you stated. The hub is held in with the cap and the outer snap ring. The only advantage to having the snap ring or bolt is that it helps hold the outer axle seal tight against the back of the spindle. It isn't there to hold the hub in. If you run in mud or water a lot then I would try to get one on there even if it means grinding a new groove in the axle but otherwise I wouldn't worry about it. Just be sure to keep up with repacking the bearing either annually or semi annually.

3: You can use an angle finder on top of the knuckle. Don't go by the driveline angle.

4: I think you can buy an adapter for this. Might search here for it as I'm sure it was posted here somewhere.

5: That will probably work. There are actual torque specs for this but I usually go by the feel when turning the knuckle back and forth to adjust the sleeve on them. By the book is the right answer though. The snap rings are not used on the EB knuckles. The ball joints are for multiple applications where some require it and some don't.

 

[eb66to77]

In reference to your 5th question, ball joints.

1-Lower ball joint..........................30 ft/lbs
2-Adjusting sleeve.........................50
3-Upper ball joint...........................100
4-Lower ball joint...........................70

 

[broncnaz]

Once knuckles are installed you need to check how much effort it takes to turn the knuckle I used a fish scale it should not take more than 26 pounds if it does you need to loosen up the adjusting sleeve to lessen the preload.
As for your shock issue you should be able to turn the shaft to the direction you need to install it doesnt need to be aligned with the bottom mounting hole

 

[JWMcCrary]

As for your shock issue you should be able to turn the shaft to the direction you need to install it doesnt need to be aligned with the bottom mounting hole

Thanks for the replys


My new shocks have the hose coming off to the remote reservoir, so I can only orient them in one direction, which doesn't line up with my current mounts. I searched and found some pictures where some had been mounted by drilling a hole through the hoop. Unless I can figure a different method, I think I will go that route. Turning the shaft only affects the bottom mount with these shocks.