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3 Arm Wiper Setup
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Ford 6R80 6 spd
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Fix Motor Mount
Roll Cage Braces
Throttle Body 65mm
Wheel Alignment
Heat Riser Replacement
Vent Window Repair
Center Console Mount
Straighten Bumper
Ford 6R80 6 spd
More Tech...
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'71/'76 Badass Bronco Bronco Build
- Thread starter ba123
- Start date
Yes, thanks for that!Hey, nobody ever accused me of not looking at that half-full glass of not-spilled milk through rose colored glasses.
Two steps forward, one step back… was such a relief to get the tranny and tcase in there and exactly how I wanted it. I had originally planned on hooking up my D20 Shift cables before install since I knew it would be tight, but I was waiting for a cable boot that would work so I didn’t and I just out it in. I got the more difficult of the two (rear) on but the positioning wasn’t right and beyond adjustment and the front was a no go at all… found out I did not get the proper instructions on what to do and my own damn fault for not test fitting that before installing (feel like an idiot), but now I gotta try to cut off part of my shift rails and drill new holes in them while it’s still installed or take it out again and redo, which I’d rather not.
Going to try to support the trans and xfer case and remove the crossmember and just drop enough to give me enough room to get in there…wish me luck, anyone ever tried something like that while still mounted? [again, kicking myself….I wasted so much time carefully removing the tabs on my J-Shift to make it clean for my holes. Sucks. I could’ve just hacked those shafts!!!]
Going to try to support the trans and xfer case and remove the crossmember and just drop enough to give me enough room to get in there…wish me luck, anyone ever tried something like that while still mounted? [again, kicking myself….I wasted so much time carefully removing the tabs on my J-Shift to make it clean for my holes. Sucks. I could’ve just hacked those shafts!!!]
If it was me, I would add shift cable install to list, with oil pan front drain, and continue working on Bronco, adding to "list".
When list is long enough, pull engine/tranny assembly and complete items on list.
It took 24 years to get to this point, what's a few more weeks?
When list is long enough, pull engine/tranny assembly and complete items on list.
It took 24 years to get to this point, what's a few more weeks?
Very good point although I’ll at least see if I can do it without pulling. I’ve made my peace with the pan. I think if I find a short drain plug that has a tapered tip, it’ll be easy to get in and out other wise one of the other methods is fine.
Looking again underneath though, I don’t think I can cut that much off and do it right without dropping it out.
Just read through your thread and this build is awesome! Everything is impressive, but that console turned out great.
Thanks! I just dreamed it up and Dan Carr did all the magic of bringing it to life,,,he literally did it exactly how I dreamed it, which is a rare ability. Certainly not an inexpensive end result in all the things I did on there but it’s such a central part (literally) of the Bronco and a huge focal point if you’re trying to make your Bronco look nice.
I cannot recommend him highly enough.
https://www.facebook.com/profile.php?id=100082399045171
carrscustomparts@gmail.com
Man, I’m doing so much more than I thought I’d have to do…ball joints, axle shaft U-joint, I’m only on the drivers side, pass moves fine but we’ll see when I get over there, but just want to do one side at a time.
Anyway, can anyone tell me if HD axles came stock or were an option for a ‘76 Ranger, or maybe I did something I don’t remember? (I did so much and I don’t remember anywhere near all I did back then, but these are def not the standard 260 U-joint axles. They are 1-3/16 caps. )
Also starting to think that since I’m doing all this, maybe I should just do my gears anyway…since I seem to have made a miscalculation in my gearing most likely and need much more than my 4.56/4.55 that I put in and with my 35’s and .067 final drive.
Anyway, can anyone tell me if HD axles came stock or were an option for a ‘76 Ranger, or maybe I did something I don’t remember? (I did so much and I don’t remember anywhere near all I did back then, but these are def not the standard 260 U-joint axles. They are 1-3/16 caps. )
Also starting to think that since I’m doing all this, maybe I should just do my gears anyway…since I seem to have made a miscalculation in my gearing most likely and need much more than my 4.56/4.55 that I put in and with my 35’s and .067 final drive.
Front end is done other than brakes and the shocks and shock mounts I ordered. Also trying to figure out sway bar…not sure if I got rid of my stock one cause it no longer would work with the lift or it just disappeared.
Need to do my front brake lines next I think. Rear brakes being delivered tomorrow and can knock that out.
My wheels came as well and I had to mount the front to in order to get my radius arms back on the right way.
Although I ordered black trim bolts with them and they didn’t come and still waiting for my black screw for the flares as well.
Need to do my front brake lines next I think. Rear brakes being delivered tomorrow and can knock that out.
My wheels came as well and I had to mount the front to in order to get my radius arms back on the right way.
Although I ordered black trim bolts with them and they didn’t come and still waiting for my black screw for the flares as well.
Had to figure out how I wanted my battery mounted. I’m not a fan of those big bulky battery hold downs and not sure why they don’t make more that can grip the battery from the bottom. The battery I’m going with from XS Power has a tray like this but I had to make it work in the Bronco.
Used 2 flat aluminum bars across, drilled and attached it to the existing supports and then attached the battery hold down.
Here is the battery mounted in there.
Doesn’t need any more than that since the battery will still also be supported by the main supports. I can loosen and move it left or right as needed. It’s tight to get to the back hold down screws but I can get them with my flex extension.
Still have much to do before I use the battery but needed to make sure the setup would work before I needed it to.
Used 2 flat aluminum bars across, drilled and attached it to the existing supports and then attached the battery hold down.
Here is the battery mounted in there.
Doesn’t need any more than that since the battery will still also be supported by the main supports. I can loosen and move it left or right as needed. It’s tight to get to the back hold down screws but I can get them with my flex extension.
Still have much to do before I use the battery but needed to make sure the setup would work before I needed it to.
Thanks again, @Oldtimer , I left my trans and xfer case out until I was sure there was no more I could possibly do… and I did do a fair amount more.
It’s now back in (hopefully for good) with the cables attached and all adjusted perfectly as can be. Was easier getting it all back in this time too.
It’s now back in (hopefully for good) with the cables attached and all adjusted perfectly as can be. Was easier getting it all back in this time too.
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I got my brakes from MP Brakes all set up, but only temporarily as I decided to just do the upgrade to 31 spline axles now instead of risking it. Thanks to @toddz69 for recommending this kit, I hope it works as well as I think it will. Nice thing about it is that it uses later model (like 2005 or so) Mustang calipers that DO NOT NEED ADJUSTING! Don't need to adjust it at first and you never need to use it and it won't affect your braking. I do plan on using it, but I hate the way those Caddy calipers are set up and was always a worry.
My progress has slowed a bit as I try to tackle getting a feel of my wiring needs and how I plan to integrate my overabundance of different systems I'm installing into this Bronco:
1) Bronco Ron Francis Express Panel Wiring (nice cause I can pick and choose each routing for each run of wire--it's all separate)
2) Telorvek Ron Francis Panel for Ford 5.0 EFI (same, also each connector has it's own bag of just connector and spool of 20' of wire and I can run however I want or leave out*)
3) Megasquirt 3 - Stinger PiMPxs
4) MS3 Expansion Harness and Coil near Plug and my wiring for Cam Sync and Crank Sensor.
5) Digital Dawg iKey (Keyless push button start)
6) DDawg 4g GPS locator and starter interrupt.
7) Dakota Digital HDX
8) Atoto Ultra S8 Android Headunit (should be able to do some tuning from this and see engine info as well)
9) Delta PAG brushless fan - variable fan speed controlled by ecu
10) Vintage Air
It's a lot of stuff and a lot of thought. I'm happy with my decisions so far but it's time consuming and stressful to plan how to integrate all these different systems and decide on what will make me happy as well as what will work best. The integration should be spectacular if it all works out how I envision it. Little things get me excited, like the ability of the MS3 ecu to communicate to the Dakota Dash. I shouldn't need any sensors connected to the Dakota unless I want to - might have speed to to dakota and then out to ecu but not sure. The MS3 ecu will even calculate which GEAR I'M IN based on knowing my gear ratios, RPM and speed and I'm hoping it will relay info to the Dakota and then the Dakota should show this on my dash. Pretty flipping cool if that does work. I see the regular BIM does that, so hoping the Mega one does too but we'll see.
I've got an area inside the house that I'm calling my Wire Staging Room...what a mess! I’d post a pic but it’s a little overwhelming (messy).
Anyway, wish me luck.
My progress has slowed a bit as I try to tackle getting a feel of my wiring needs and how I plan to integrate my overabundance of different systems I'm installing into this Bronco:
1) Bronco Ron Francis Express Panel Wiring (nice cause I can pick and choose each routing for each run of wire--it's all separate)
2) Telorvek Ron Francis Panel for Ford 5.0 EFI (same, also each connector has it's own bag of just connector and spool of 20' of wire and I can run however I want or leave out*)
3) Megasquirt 3 - Stinger PiMPxs
4) MS3 Expansion Harness and Coil near Plug and my wiring for Cam Sync and Crank Sensor.
5) Digital Dawg iKey (Keyless push button start)
6) DDawg 4g GPS locator and starter interrupt.
7) Dakota Digital HDX
8) Atoto Ultra S8 Android Headunit (should be able to do some tuning from this and see engine info as well)
9) Delta PAG brushless fan - variable fan speed controlled by ecu
10) Vintage Air
It's a lot of stuff and a lot of thought. I'm happy with my decisions so far but it's time consuming and stressful to plan how to integrate all these different systems and decide on what will make me happy as well as what will work best. The integration should be spectacular if it all works out how I envision it. Little things get me excited, like the ability of the MS3 ecu to communicate to the Dakota Dash. I shouldn't need any sensors connected to the Dakota unless I want to - might have speed to to dakota and then out to ecu but not sure. The MS3 ecu will even calculate which GEAR I'M IN based on knowing my gear ratios, RPM and speed and I'm hoping it will relay info to the Dakota and then the Dakota should show this on my dash. Pretty flipping cool if that does work. I see the regular BIM does that, so hoping the Mega one does too but we'll see.
I've got an area inside the house that I'm calling my Wire Staging Room...what a mess! I’d post a pic but it’s a little overwhelming (messy).
Anyway, wish me luck.
Made some wire-plan and test progress. What I absolutely do NOT want is multiple sensors doing the exact same thing. It's messy, I don't like it. I also don't like excessive and useless wires. So, that mean doing things my way, from scratch. I had to wait a long time for that Telorvek panel to make "my way" easier and then I got the Stinger extension harness for my COP and cam sync and crank trigger setup, that was sooo nicely wrapped and of course, I had to un-wrap that all, so fun!
I've been planning my integration of VSS, Coolant Temp, Oil Pressure (since I want my ecu to have that info as well as I can set rules) and today it was time to see if I could make those all work nicely together and see the same info on both my Dakota Digital as well as the ecu.
I tried reading a bunch of thread on the VSS and seems like everyone had a different answer, none of which worked for me. I decided to try running the Dakota Digital pulse generator and then just splice into that and give the ecu the same parameters that DD is using and it looks like it worked perfectly (tested with a drill).
I had a weird experience with the Dakota Digital Oil Pressure sender when I had it connected to the ecu and then the data relayed through the BIM to the Dakota. It gave a crazy high reading while sitting on the floor and then even disconnected it was giving me 30 lbs or so. Not sure what the deal is, but connected it the right way to the DD box and then just spliced the signal line into the ecu and works great (I think--I'll know for sure when I run it for real but should be good).
Stock ford temp sender was easy and info relays easily to the DD, but I might try the DD one anyway since it's new and nice but not sure yet.
Also tested the fuel level sender and works fine.
These things took time and made a mess but wasn't as painful as it could've been!
The other issue, since I think I have more stuff to hide than most has been where to put it. The man, Dan Carr of Carrparts, who so perfectly built my dream console was tasked with another request from me and he seems to have nailed that one as well.
All I did was dream it up, hopefully my dreams fit, but I asked him to make me these boxes for the kick panels. One on each side…one side will have the Telorvek panel And the other will have the Bronco panel and then a battery buss bar and other stuff.
He just finished then and hopefully I didn’t mess up my measurements and they fit as planned!!!
I’ll cut, test fit, cut wiring holes, and then powdercoat before final assembly. Wish me luck.
I've been planning my integration of VSS, Coolant Temp, Oil Pressure (since I want my ecu to have that info as well as I can set rules) and today it was time to see if I could make those all work nicely together and see the same info on both my Dakota Digital as well as the ecu.
I tried reading a bunch of thread on the VSS and seems like everyone had a different answer, none of which worked for me. I decided to try running the Dakota Digital pulse generator and then just splice into that and give the ecu the same parameters that DD is using and it looks like it worked perfectly (tested with a drill).
I had a weird experience with the Dakota Digital Oil Pressure sender when I had it connected to the ecu and then the data relayed through the BIM to the Dakota. It gave a crazy high reading while sitting on the floor and then even disconnected it was giving me 30 lbs or so. Not sure what the deal is, but connected it the right way to the DD box and then just spliced the signal line into the ecu and works great (I think--I'll know for sure when I run it for real but should be good).
Stock ford temp sender was easy and info relays easily to the DD, but I might try the DD one anyway since it's new and nice but not sure yet.
Also tested the fuel level sender and works fine.
These things took time and made a mess but wasn't as painful as it could've been!
The other issue, since I think I have more stuff to hide than most has been where to put it. The man, Dan Carr of Carrparts, who so perfectly built my dream console was tasked with another request from me and he seems to have nailed that one as well.
All I did was dream it up, hopefully my dreams fit, but I asked him to make me these boxes for the kick panels. One on each side…one side will have the Telorvek panel And the other will have the Bronco panel and then a battery buss bar and other stuff.
He just finished then and hopefully I didn’t mess up my measurements and they fit as planned!!!
I’ll cut, test fit, cut wiring holes, and then powdercoat before final assembly. Wish me luck.
So trying to jump around and try to make some progress as I wait for things to be delivered. My remaining suspension stuff was supposed to come today, but my favorite delivery company fails again… (noT a fan of FedEx at all).
Figure I should see how my radiator and intake play together since I know it’ll be tight and I’ll have to figure something and and guess what…I do. Speaking of radiator though, how are these Drake brackets supposed to go on this Howe radiator??? Might have to heat and mold these things. Removed the top rubber while I play.
So, for this intake I have a couple problems.
1) my throttle lever hits without egr or egr delete spacer, but I don’t have room for one. I’m gonna need a 90° turn right off the intake and then put the throttle body on. Anyone know of any? I see a couple for the sn95, not sure if those would fit but they aren’t a full 90° anyway, which is what I need.
Thoughts? I’ll then need a straight intake pipe instead of a curved one.
I see lots of intake elbows around but just not a 90° one for a. 5.0
Or I could go straight up with an air ram…haha.
Figure I should see how my radiator and intake play together since I know it’ll be tight and I’ll have to figure something and and guess what…I do. Speaking of radiator though, how are these Drake brackets supposed to go on this Howe radiator??? Might have to heat and mold these things. Removed the top rubber while I play.
So, for this intake I have a couple problems.
1) my throttle lever hits without egr or egr delete spacer, but I don’t have room for one. I’m gonna need a 90° turn right off the intake and then put the throttle body on. Anyone know of any? I see a couple for the sn95, not sure if those would fit but they aren’t a full 90° anyway, which is what I need.
Thoughts? I’ll then need a straight intake pipe instead of a curved one.
I see lots of intake elbows around but just not a 90° one for a. 5.0
Or I could go straight up with an air ram…haha.
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What about something like in the link below?
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001OMM6WS/?tag=classicbroncos-20
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001OMM6WS/?tag=classicbroncos-20
It has to have flanges on each side so I can turn 90° and THEN mount the throttle body.
Exactly like the stock Explorer elbow, but not the stock Explorer ugly tiny elbow.
While this would work, it would greatly restrict my airflow and it's ugly.
I need something like this:
But with the Ford 5.0 Flange on BOTH sides (this only has one side) and too pricey to mess with. I cannot find ANY aftermarket Explorer elbows!
Exactly like the stock Explorer elbow, but not the stock Explorer ugly tiny elbow.
While this would work, it would greatly restrict my airflow and it's ugly.
I need something like this:
But with the Ford 5.0 Flange on BOTH sides (this only has one side) and too pricey to mess with. I cannot find ANY aftermarket Explorer elbows!
Thanks, I might be able to do that but I think the 90 turn first would be better. I'm not sure if I'll have room for my fan shroud, but yeah, maybe I'll have no choice but to figure it out that way. Thanks for the suggestion.
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