• Welcome to ClassicBroncos! - You are currently viewing the forums as a GUEST. To take advantage of all the site features, please take a moment to register. It's fast, simple and absolutely free. So please join our community today!
    If you have problems registering or can't log into your account, please contact Admin.

I did it again. 1996 Ford Explorer problem

chuck1022

Contributor
Sr. Member
Joined
Feb 25, 2017
Messages
576
You guys walked me through my 2000 Explorer issue. I bought a 1996 Explorer, I am trying to have 2 or 3 before I retire for projects.

Anyways

Drove it home....ran amazing. Changed the airfilter....has run like garbage ever since.

Went and bought a new MAF sensor. Runs like crap still (can't return those)

I'm gonna buy a multimeter to see if it really is the MAF. Youtube video shows about idle voltage...bla bla.

Car starts and runs...but when you push the gas pedal too far it sputters and falls on its face.

If you have any ideas...or have dealt with this let me know.

Check engine light just came on...have to borrow my neighbors reader
 
OP
OP
C

chuck1022

Contributor
Sr. Member
Joined
Feb 25, 2017
Messages
576
Check fuel pressure. At rail. Good luck.
Changed the MAF SENSOR

Changed the IAT sensor

Changed the fuel filter

Still runs like dog $hit

Order a fuel pressure tester and an OBD2 reader

The only left is a bad fuel pump right????
 

Tiko433

Contributor
I know just enough to be dangerous
Joined
Jul 9, 2014
Messages
1,828
Loc.
South West Florida
When you say changed the air filter, what did you change? Is the air filter open? Beware of fan wash it can affect the MAF.
I don’t have a box but I have using a shield.
My last issue with my MAF I had a crappy splice when I connected my MAF pigtail.
Checking fuel pressure is a good idea too
 
Last edited:

Seventee

Contributor
Sr. Member
Joined
Dec 7, 2012
Messages
997
Loc.
In the sticks of MT
Did you read codes?

Something must have happened during the air filter change, is it an OEM airbox and have you triple checked it's installed/seated/sealed correctly?

I have an Explorer 5.0 in my '54 International. I did not have room for the factory airbox. I tried to do a quick test drive without a filter on the end of the MAF adapter. It ran like you described - the MAF did not like that arrangement. I could see the MAF readings all over the board in Forscan. I put an aftermarket cone filter on and it cleared up the issues.
 
OP
OP
C

chuck1022

Contributor
Sr. Member
Joined
Feb 25, 2017
Messages
576
When you say changed the air filter, what did you change? Is the air filter open? Beware of fan wash it can affect the MAF.
I don’t have a box but I have using a shield.
My last issue with my MAF I had a crappy splice when I connected my MAF pigtail.
Checking fuel pressure is a good idea too
Drove the car home...ran like a champ. Filled the tank up, changed the oil and engine air filter. Ran like shit ever since.

Changed IAT, MAF and fuel filter. Still runs bad.

In park...motor will rev to 4000rpm, in drive it sputters and backfires.

My last idea is fuel pump
 

EPB72

Contributor
Sr. Member
Joined
Jul 13, 2019
Messages
812
Loc.
Pleasant Hill, CA
Take a good look at the air intake boot/duct between the MAF and Throttle body.they can crack split open when disturbed/moved around. look in the bellows area low spots.. any unmetered air and it will run like shit ...also was there a breather hose attached that did'nt get reconnected??
 
OP
OP
C

chuck1022

Contributor
Sr. Member
Joined
Feb 25, 2017
Messages
576
Alright. Hooked up new new Bluetooth OBD2 scanner. It's a wireless one call Bluedriver. No codes at first.

I hooked up my fuel pressure tester and this is what I did.

I cycled the key like 6 times ....everytime I did that the pressure kept building and finally it stopped at 29 psi.

As soon as I started the car, pressure immediately dropped to 11psi......when I tried to rev the motor...it would sputter up to 2500 rims and the fuel gauge would drop to 0.

I'm thinking my pump is bad.
 

surfer-b

Contributor
Bronco Guru
Joined
Sep 7, 2006
Messages
2,974
sounds like the regulator on the fuel rail is bad. Unhook the return line and watch the pressure gauge, if goes up and holds, pump is ok, if it will not hold or will not pressurize its the pump
 

onpier55

Full Member
Joined
Oct 19, 2017
Messages
339
Loc.
Roseville Ca
Just a note on explorer pumps. You have to use a pump that is for a returnless or return line. Depends on your system.
I used a return line pump on my returnless system. Too much pressure. Blows out the small hose line on outlet of pump.
Fixed problems with a returnless pump that has a pressure relief on pump.

Also another note. Take (ecm) and (trans) connectors apart and clean with maf cleaner. Let dry then put together with dielectric grease. Fixed my intermittent problem. I read that on the ford explorer forum.
 
OP
OP
C

chuck1022

Contributor
Sr. Member
Joined
Feb 25, 2017
Messages
576
Just a note on explorer pumps. You have to use a pump that is for a returnless or return line. Depends on your system.
I used a return line pump on my returnless system. Too much pressure. Blows out the small hose line on outlet of pump.
Fixed problems with a returnless pump that has a pressure relief on pump.

Also another note. Take (ecm) and (trans) connectors apart and clean with maf cleaner. Let dry then put together with dielectric grease. Fixed my intermittent problem. I read that on the ford explorer forum.
The MAF cleaner is a good idea. I will add that to the list. Right now I prioritized a cracked tubular manifold on the passenger side. I just bought a gt40p exhaust manifold that I am gonna try and make work. Then I am gonna tackle a p0401 code.....then...then....then
 
Top