Gauges still not working

[Mac2Night]

Hey guys,
So, I’ve read previous threads till my eyes have almost bled and I’ve done what people have suggested with no success.

My gas and temp gauges are dead. I’ve multimetered, tested the connections and just today chanced the IVR. Still flat on empty and cold.

The good news is that my oil pressure gauge works fine!

Any other suggestions appreciated!

 

[B RON CO]

Hi,since the fuel gauge is working the IVR is good. I would check for pulsing voltage at the end of the sender wires. If there is a pulsing voltage I would change the sending unit. If there is no pulsing voltage I would check for current going into the gauge itself at the cluster from the IVR. You have to figure out if the problem is the sending unit, the wire, or the gauge. Good luck

 

[DirtDonk]

The good news is that my oil pressure gauge works fine!

Then there was nothing wrong with the old IVR and the new one seems to be working also.
In addition, they are very easy to test with a volt-meter before replacing.
If one of the three gauges works (excluding the ammeter) then the IVR is doing it's job.

With a volt-meter test the connector at the coolant temp sensor. Or just ground the connection to a known good ground and see what the gauge does.
If it pegs then either your sender is bad, or the wire connection is not good. Sometimes the 90 degree push-on is loose.
For grounding the sender wire, there are usually plenty of available grounds nearby, but the most certain way is to run a jumper wire from the sender wire over to the batter negative.

When you do this and then go turn the key ON/ACC you should see the gauge slowly go up to max. If it does not, then there is a wiring problem between the gauge and the sender.
OR, the gauge is dead.
If thinking the gauge is toast, you can do the same grounding test between a good ground and the output side terminal of the gauge itself. If it still does nothing, the gauge is dead.

Similar tests for the fuel sending unit.
Stock tank? Dual tanks?
If stock, reach up and disconnect the sender wire connector and inside you'll see two round female terminals. Short them to each other with a bit of wire and see what the gauge does.
Working now? If so, your sending unit is bad. Very common.
If not, go through the same tests as previous. With dual tanks, the dash switch is also a common failure point.

Paul

 

[Mac2Night]

Then there was nothing wrong with the old IVR and the new one seems to be working also.
In addition, they are very easy to test with a volt-meter before replacing.
If one of the three gauges works (excluding the ammeter) then the IVR is doing it's job.

With a volt-meter test the connector at the coolant temp sensor. Or just ground the connection to a known good ground and see what the gauge does.
If it pegs then either your sender is bad, or the wire connection is not good. Sometimes the 90 degree push-on is loose.
For grounding the sender wire, there are usually plenty of available grounds nearby, but the most certain way is to run a jumper wire from the sender wire over to the batter negative.

When you do this and then go turn the key ON/ACC you should see the gauge slowly go up to max. If it does not, then there is a wiring problem between the gauge and the sender.
OR, the gauge is dead.
If thinking the gauge is toast, you can do the same grounding test between a good ground and the output side terminal of the gauge itself. If it still does nothing, the gauge is dead.

Similar tests for the fuel sending unit.
Stock tank? Dual tanks?
If stock, reach up and disconnect the sender wire connector and inside you'll see two round female terminals. Short them to each other with a bit of wire and see what the gauge does.
Working now? If so, your sending unit is bad. Very common.
If not, go through the same tests as previous. With dual tanks, the dash switch is also a common failure point.

Paul

Thanks so much Paul! Very detailed and appreciated.