302 not starting; has fuel and spark.

[tackhouse]

Hye guys -

Trying to get my new build up and running and not having much luck.

Squared away all the wiring and tried to fire it up, but it just turns over. I have confirmed fuel pressure at 62PSI coming into the intake for the Sniper throttle body, and visually confirmed the fuel priming is happening.

I am sure that the HyperSpark distributor was installed at TDC of 1 (pulled the valve cover off and watched both valves close at the 0 mark of the harmonic balancer.

I also confirmed via video that I ma getting spark - at least at cylinder 5 - by pulling the # 5 plug, inserting it back into the wire, and shooting video of it while attempting ignition start. I can see spark, although it was not as big as I thought it would be.

Im getting RPM at the Sniper Screen and I am getting the green light at the CD box during attempts.

It just turns over. Doesn't even really *try* to start. I exhausted Holley support (they were excellent).

Seems like its a timing/engine issue. What I have changed within the engine is as follows :

Edelbrock Total Power Package 367 HP Small Block Ford Top-End Engine Kits 2091
Edelbrock Aluminum Roller Rockers 77780
Trick Flow® Track Max® Harmonic Dampers TFS-19006
COMP Cams Hi-Tech Pushrods 7929-16

I have a really hard time thinking I bungled the cam or Timing Chain install, but I suppose its possible. Concerned that maybe I didn't adjust the valve lash correctly, but I did this all on a stand and believe I took care of things, although it was many months ago that I handled all of that part of the build.

What do you guys think?

 

[36Fan]

Check your wiring. Possibly wired for start and not start AND run from the key switch. Or ,your'e 180 out on the distributor. Both of these problems happen often.

 

[Wild horse 75]

Did you use the clear distributor phasing cap when installing the distributor?

 

[tackhouse]

Check your wiring. Possibly wired for start and not start AND run from the key switch. Or ,your'e 180 out on the distributor. Both of these problems happen often.

I have the pink from the 7-pin and the pink from the distributor run to the same orange switched 12v painless accessory wire and the 12v constant run directly to the battery. Could the shared switched circuit really cause this?

 

[tackhouse]

Did you use the clear distributor phasing cap when installing the distributor?

Yes.

 

[chuckji]

I have the pink from the 7-pin and the pink from the distributor run to the same orange switched 12v painless accessory wire and the 12v constant run directly to the battery. Could the shared switched circuit really cause this?

Measure the voltage at that orange wire when the key is in the START position. If it’s really Accessory power then there will be no voltage during engine start (cranking). The Sniper needs Ignition power (voltage with the key in the ON and START positions).

 

[chuckji]

By the way, you did run the wizard on the Sniper…? If you haven’t loaded a tune file the engine will not start because the fuel pump will not turn on without a tune file.

 

[Wild horse 75]

What’s the battery voltage drop to during cranking? Needs to be at least 10V or you won’t have sufficient voltage to create a good enough spark.

 

[Broncobowsher]

Have you tried to bottle feed it. Send some fuel into the engine not through the EFI. Just pour a few ounces down the throttle body. I prefer 2-stroke premix, it has some oil in it for what the gas may wash away. But regular gas works as well, flammable brake or carb cleaner (don't try it with the non-flamable stuff). Starting fluid (that really strips away oils as well)

 

[73azbronco]

Above, try spray starting fluid down intake, it fires, you then need to check injectors getting pulse.

 

[Broncobowsher]

Also, what exactly is your fuel system? I can see an oddity where you are getting the correct fuel pressure (using an external regulator, maybe the C5 Vette fuel filter/regulator?) and feeding that into the out of the Sniper instead of the in. Sniper with built in regulator closed, since the supply isn't higher enough to open the relief yet. So the injectors are dry, and you have correct fuel pressure right up to the (wrong side of) the regulator.

What I am saying is you have fuel pressure, but have not confirmed any of that fuel is actually making it into the engine.

 

[m_m70]

Or ,your'e 180 out on the distributor.

This is a very common mistake. Stabbing the dizzy at tdc on the wrong (exhaust) stroke. Just a thought.

 

[tackhouse]

This is a very common mistake. Stabbing the dizzy at tdc on the wrong (exhaust) stroke. Just a thought.

I went down and pulled the dizzy and the #1 spark plug. Used a remote starter to crank the engine until pressure pushed my finger out. From there manually turned crank the remaining way to TDC.

Fired RIGHT up.

The last dizzy install I pulled the valve cover and watched the rockers... clearly bungled that. And having 5 different timing marks on the Trick flow harmonic balancer did me no favors.

Thanks for all your help fellas. Onto cam break-in tomorrow!

 

[73azbronco]

Net save!!

 

[pcf_mark]

Great you got it solved. I hope your cam is ok from all the cranking and it did not wipe the cam lube off. Make sure you use break in oil that will help too.