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Old 06/15/18, 06:48 PM   #1
Nev7
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Bronco paint job

Hi folks,
Can someone give me an idea how much it would cost to professionally paint a Bronco project - tub and everything else that typically gets painted on a full restoration? Thanks.
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Old 06/15/18, 06:56 PM   #2
Dlish
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Anywhere from $500 at Macco to $8,000+ for a perfect restoration.

Getting perfect body alignment, the doors etc, takes a ton of time. If you are having everything taken apart to be painted it is going to be labor intensive, before any materials are even factored in.
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Old 06/15/18, 07:00 PM   #3
sykanr0ng
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Labor costs vary a lot in different parts of the country and much of the cost of a paint job is labor.
Predicting how much it costs without knowing if you live in a high cost area such as California (which also has regulations that add to the cost) or a low labor cost area is impossible.

... I've got skills, ingenuity and no regard for maintaining any kind of historical preservation or authenticity...My Dad called that sick and wrong
www.coloradoclassicbroncos.com
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Old 06/15/18, 08:04 PM   #4
rjrobin2002
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75 bronco, 5.0 mass air, C4, 4.5" lift, 35" General X3s, 4.56 gears

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A straight no pitted rust in original paint I will paint for $5,000, a rusted out with several coats of paint and rotten door post, rockers, and so on I would charge $10,000.
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Old 06/15/18, 10:17 PM   #5
904Bronco
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So many Ford's, so little time...

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This was around $10K... I painted the engine compartment.

New hood, new left fender, cut holes for marker lights, prep used grill and Right fender. Paint hardtop, and raptor line inside. Had to replace one door skin. Replace both rockers. Paint grill argent and install TBP stickers on FORD on tailgate. New glass in hardtop, windshield, and pass door.
Test fitting and adjusting the body mounts... He spent many hours on it and gave me a very reasonable price for it all.

It is not a simple process... Mine was a roller that had been taken apart.
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1967 Poppy Red U15 Lubr... soon to be 96 Explorer EDIS and NV3550
1971 Grabber Green U15 Lubr... 2000 Explorer EDIS and 4R70W
2016 Shelby GT350 - Race red
2002 F250 Superduty 7.3 195K and still going!
1996 Saleen Mustang 122K... Project car
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Old 06/15/18, 11:17 PM   #6
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honest the bolder ran under me

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After replacing the sheetmetal I replaced. The primer, filler, sealer, seam sealer, paint, solvent, hardener, single stage solid color paint, bead liner, metal prep, sponges, sand paper, masking tape and paper cost me about $1500.00 in materials only, about 5 years ago. This counts no labor, hundreds of hours of labor or replacement parts. This is just prep and shoot by myself. This was painted apart in my back yard body diseemble but still on a fully loaded chassis.

1974, stock 302, C4, BFG KM2 33x12.5x15, 8in rim, detroit rear, trutrac front 4.11 gearing, Warflairs,2.5" lift, chevy disc conversion, Hydraboost, owned since Christmas Eve 1977
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Old 06/16/18, 12:37 AM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dlish View Post
Anywhere from $500 at Macco to $8,000+ for a perfect restoration.

Getting perfect body alignment, the doors etc, takes a ton of time. If you are having everything taken apart to be painted it is going to be labor intensive, before any materials are even factored in.
Yup!!!!!!!

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Old 06/16/18, 04:45 AM   #8
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MAaco quoted me 3500 for their high end job, metallic paint and clear coat, then wet sanded and buffed.

351w/Fitech Injection, NP435, Hydroboost, 3.5" Lift + 1" BL, 35" Dick Cepek Extreme
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Old 06/16/18, 06:03 AM   #9
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We started at $15k and went from there. Show quality can be $30k+ easily.

Even at $5k your only getting 40 hours of labor and cheap paint. 40 hours doesn't get a lot done.

An $800 Maaco paint job barely covers wiping the big dirt chunks off spending 30 minutes taping off and spraying with the cheapest paint possible. It is surely to fail in a year or two and flat look like crap! I used to buy paint that was $800 a gallon, not including the primer, filler, or the clear....

If cheap is you budget do it yourself in your driveway. It takes 12 rattle cans to paint a Bronco and will honestly look as good and last about as long as a Maaco special.

1971 Mall Crawler- Resto mod. http://classicbroncos.com/forums/sho...dabronco+frame

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1966 U14
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Old 06/16/18, 06:11 AM   #10
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How did you do that?

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Quote:
Originally Posted by rjrobin2002 View Post
A straight no pitted rust in original paint I will paint for $5,000, a rusted out with several coats of paint and rotten door post, rockers, and so on I would charge $10,000.
/\/\This/\/\ is why mine is still primer and likely always will be, WH Rally 2000 seats, Duff aluminum door panels, custom painted dash, a/c, full Autometer instrumebntation, tons and tons of interior upgrades, and a damn fine suspension set up, with a healthy Windsor and a straight f'n body too......but with prices like these I will probably never paint it....

Sigh.....sux being a poor eb owner, lol.

'73, 3.5" sl, XL RS9's, F-250 mounts, Duff long arms, 1" bl, 35" MTZ's, C-4, twin sticked, P.S., built 351W, Exp Serp, F&R Detroits, 4.11's, chromo axles, 11 leaf packs, SuperJoints, Chevy front disc, BC rear disc, BC Vintage a/c, Scat Procar 2K seats, Alpine/Pioneer, Bear, Cobra 148 GTL/Texas Star.
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Old 06/16/18, 08:36 AM   #11
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I did the rattle can at first by myself in the garage and it looked good enough for me and most people couldn't tell. Doing the paint more legit right now and i'm easily $1500 in materials and countless hours of labor right now...

legit paint (not final wet sanded and buffed yet)


Krylon
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Old 06/16/18, 08:36 PM   #12
Skiddy
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rustytruck View Post
After replacing the sheetmetal I replaced. The primer, filler, sealer, seam sealer, paint, solvent, hardener, single stage solid color paint, bead liner, metal prep, sponges, sand paper, masking tape and paper cost me about $1500.00 in materials only, about 5 years ago. This counts no labor, hundreds of hours of labor or replacement parts. This is just prep and shoot by myself. This was painted apart in my back yard body diseemble but still on a fully loaded chassis.
that's about what I have in mine, painted a few months ago

Tried True Ford Blue RIP my brother Mstark
74 Bronco with Mustang 5.0 EFI w/painless harness, C4, 4.56 gears, D20 twin stick, 35's, 3 1/2" SL, long arms, 3" BL, rear spool, Grizzly front locker D44, full cage, 5pt harness. bla bla
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Old 06/16/18, 09:40 PM   #13
sykanr0ng
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"You say overkill like it's a bad thing"

Greeley, CO
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rjrobin2002 View Post
A straight no pitted rust in original paint I will paint for $5,000, a rusted out with several coats of paint and rotten door post, rockers, and so on I would charge $10,000.
Quote:
Originally Posted by bronconut73 View Post
/\/\This/\/\ is why mine is still primer and likely always will be, WH Rally 2000 seats, Duff aluminum door panels, custom painted dash, a/c, full Autometer instrumebntation, tons and tons of interior upgrades, and a damn fine suspension set up, with a healthy Windsor and a straight f'n body too......but with prices like these I will probably never paint it....

Sigh.....sux being a poor eb owner, lol.
Which is why I have concluded I will either do the Rustoleum / yacht paint method or get a cheap gun and do it myself.
Running around in primer will get old.

... I've got skills, ingenuity and no regard for maintaining any kind of historical preservation or authenticity...My Dad called that sick and wrong
www.coloradoclassicbroncos.com
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Old 06/16/18, 11:25 PM   #14
Kbpony
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Pekin, IL
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I have about $1500 in my home job so far, and I still have the doors and half cab to do. Probably another couple hundred plus the stripes I’d like to put on. Not a show truck, but looks decent. A good gun and good lighting go a long way toward a good job. Good luck with yours.
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Old 06/17/18, 06:15 AM   #15
bronconut73
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How did you do that?

Orlando
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sykanr0ng View Post
Which is why I have concluded I will either do the Rustoleum / yacht paint method or get a cheap gun and do it myself.
Running around in primer will get old.
Been running around in gray or ruddy Brown primer for 30 years.

When does it start getting old?

Lol

'73, 3.5" sl, XL RS9's, F-250 mounts, Duff long arms, 1" bl, 35" MTZ's, C-4, twin sticked, P.S., built 351W, Exp Serp, F&R Detroits, 4.11's, chromo axles, 11 leaf packs, SuperJoints, Chevy front disc, BC rear disc, BC Vintage a/c, Scat Procar 2K seats, Alpine/Pioneer, Bear, Cobra 148 GTL/Texas Star.
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