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Old 11/09/17, 11:13 PM   #16
BajaBronco
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Quote:
Originally Posted by WILDHORSES View Post
Here's some pretty recent shots of BHut's legit Explorer upholstery. In a 73 we have. Matched the stock rear seat perfectly.

Jim
x5 on Bronco hut covers....those colors/patterns and pic angle making Andrew dizzy though....

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'69 Stroppe Bronco Racer "Blue Torch" Kaysinger Racing
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Old 11/11/17, 08:51 AM   #17
1buckeyefan1
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Fenders off!

Some small progress made..trying to determine what metal I need. I suspect the fenders were replaced years ago...hard to tell, but they had some black paint inside. The drivers inner fender appears to have been replaced.

I think i'm going to replace both the inner & outer fenders w/ new metal from JBG. I'm going with an front replacement panel for the driver's post too.. I spun the lower nut for the fender on the inside, so I will have to at least cut it back that far to weld it back in place.
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Old 11/14/17, 06:39 PM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by half cab View Post
I believe Aug. '73 would have began the '74 year models. I say that but I know of a '77 built in July '76. Build date that was built same month as my '76.
I received my Marti report today and I think I have my answer on the model year being a 1974:

Your vehicle was actually produced on August 22, 1973 -- thirty-four days behind schedule.

U15U-100 Bronco 4x4 Wagon
G302-2V Engine
LBuilt at Michigan Truck
S23044Serial Number of this Bronco scheduled forproduction at Michigan Truck
092Wheelbase (inches)
YOrange Paint
U153U-100 Bronco 4x4 Wagon 4450 Lb. GVW
94Orange Random Stripe Bench Seat and RearSeat
GAutomatic Transmission
B8J3.50 Limited Slip Rear Axle with Power Steering
04450Gross Vehicle Weight in Pounds
74Seattle DSO (District Sales Office)

DEALER #:74I530

Your vehicle was equipped with the following features:
-Skid Plates
-Power Steering
-L78x15-B Black Sidewall Tires
-Mud & Snow Tread Tires
-Swing-Away Spare Tire Carrier
-Explorer Package
-Left Hand Remote Control Mirror
-Right Hand Chrome Mirror
-Bodyside Moldings
-Manual AM Radio
-Hardboard Headliner
-Wheel Covers
-Auxiliary Fuel Tank with Skid Plate
-Chrome Bumpers

Your vehicle was actually produced on August 22, 1973 -- thirty-four days behind schedule.
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Old 12/03/17, 09:15 PM   #19
1buckeyefan1
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Parts have arrived

Made a black friday trip to JBG and brought back a load of sheet metal:

2x fenders
2x lower quarters
1x inner quarter
2x inner fender/aprons
2x rocker panels (unsure if i'm going to use both vs. patch)
1x outer door post

and a bunch of other misc parts. I suspect i'm going to make a trip back up there yet before their sale is over. Jeff & Pat were very friendly and showed me Jeff's collection in the showroom. Some neat originals there. Had a U14 plow truck w/ ~2700 miles, a U14 camper from colorado, etc. If you've watched the Detroit Steel bronco episode, they do a run-through of the showroom.
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Old 12/03/17, 09:20 PM   #20
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Had some time today to start cutting out the outer door post. I only cut half out for now. The bottom backing plate had a sheared-off bolt and one of the fender bolts had to be welded back in.

I think i'm going to use the outer panel as a half patch vs. tearing the entire thing out. The upper half is pretty nice yet.
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Old 12/03/17, 09:24 PM   #21
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So i had an urge to take a wire brush and see what lied below 1/2" of bondo on the passenger side. WTF happened? It looks like the PO took a drill to it and started creating a connect-the-dot puzzle w/ very poorly aligned holes.

The driver side had slightly less bondo, but has some serious dents and a few holes + cancer. I have a spare OEM/Carpenter rocker. I can't decide if I should patch it w/ pieces left from the passenger side (if there is anything usable) vs. drilling out and replacing it all?
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Last edited by 1buckeyefan1; 12/03/17 at 10:10 PM..
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Old 12/04/17, 06:19 PM   #22
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that's the old school way of pulling dents. Drill a bunch of holes and use a puller on it. I'd drill it out rocker and replace it. Your going to find rust between the panels and your going to be so much happier when you know it's all clean straight metal. The spot weld drill bits from Harbor freight work pretty well with a little wd40
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Old 12/04/17, 09:33 PM   #23
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Galt72 View Post
that's the old school way of pulling dents. Drill a bunch of holes and use a puller on it. I'd drill it out rocker and replace it. Your going to find rust between the panels and your going to be so much happier when you know it's all clean straight metal. The spot weld drill bits from Harbor freight work pretty well with a little wd40
ah, that explains it much more. I've seen the welded studs for pulling dents, forgot about the drill a sh** ton of holes method.

Coincidentally, I picked up another 3x of the HF spot weld bits earlier today + a welding blanket for when I get to the front.. Does anyone have a good source for the removable head part or do you just throw away the shaft when you're done w/ both ends? I learned the hard way early on that you have to keep it square to conserve the teeth. Do they ever go on sale for less than $4.99? I think I have 5 in reserve now. L
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Old 01/01/18, 06:51 PM   #24
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Front clip replaced!

Making some progress this month w/ time off work. Got the front inner fenders replaced and found the the drivers front wheel tub was crumpled from a previous accident and barely hanging in by a couple of welds. Replaced it too, the JBG replacement metal was a spot on match.

Fortunately the core support was pretty solid, which helped minimize alignment issues (I think).
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Old 01/01/18, 07:04 PM   #25
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After gaining some confidence + experience from the front, i decided to move onto the passenger rear quarter. The lower had a bit of rust, but the inner was pretty much gone at the seam line. I followed one of the earlier how-to and cut it out about an inch from the seams and carefully drilled out the spot welds and tried avoid using the air chisel in order to keep the original metal intact.

The only positive surprise is after grinding away a 1/2" of bondo, the tail light section looks to be in decent shape. It seems the PO butt welded it in (after i presume it came loose from the swing-away spare mount) and decided to fill it in vs welding it back correctly/internally. Although I have a new tail light section already purchased, I think I'm going to try and save this one.
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Old 01/01/18, 09:54 PM   #26
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Rear Quarters in

So it's been a pretty productive week off. I got the inner/lower quarters cut out, determined I can salvage the rear tail light extension (I have read too many stories on trying to get those to fit well). So despite having already purchased one, I think i'm going to delete the old spare bracket holes and do some body work on it)

I think I have the correct sequence of how to remove/replace everything.

1. I'm going to re-weld the inner quarter + floor extension
2. then remove the outer rocker.
3. Weld in the lower quarter (I really wish the new flared quarters were out and I would use those. It sorta hurts to weld in a new panel and then rough/flare cut it)
4.) weld in the rear extension
5.) weld in the outer rocker

I'm still stumped on the top/rear door gap. I don't think the striker post has moved.. as I had it braced until I put the door back on and there is no slack. I really hope I can decrease the gap by working with the door a bit more.

I also need to bump up the inner quarter about 1/4". It's riding directly on the door striker post right now.

btw, i thought I read another build thread where they found a wrench behind the door post? Yep, I found a 1/2" wrench in mine as well as a old "Big Mountain" button...along with an inch of gunk that helped rot out 2 nice sized holes in the post.

Any words of wisdom/experience before I weld in a colossal multi-week setback?
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Last edited by 1buckeyefan1; 01/02/18 at 07:38 AM..
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Old 01/02/18, 06:54 AM   #27
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That is looking good. Sure is a lot of work especially working with new sheet metal. A little at a time and before you know it, its done. Ken
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Old 01/02/18, 07:15 AM   #28
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Looks like somebody had a holiday weekend keep it up man

I gotta get a garage heater, I didn't go in the garage all weekend, except to get a beer...speaking of, I think the fridge is keeping the beer from freezing

-25 wind chill this morning

1966 LUBR, 170 3spd, 2.5" SL, 1" BL, 31's Tonko

1972 U15, 302 3spd, 3.5" SL, 1" BL, 35's Frankie
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Old 01/02/18, 09:29 AM   #29
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Looking good, What are you using to drill out the spot welds? Spot welds are killing me, eating up bits from Harbor Freight.
Thanks
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Old 01/02/18, 10:44 AM   #30
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Originally Posted by Rocko1012 View Post
Looking good, What are you using to drill out the spot welds? Spot welds are killing me, eating up bits from Harbor Freight.
Thanks
I'm using the same HF bits too. I think I've gone through 5 so far (both sides of the bit). I've got some wax that helps w/ cutting, but the biggest destroyer is when they hop out of the pilot hole. very few of the welds are perfectly flat, so when it hops, I break a few teeth and curse. I've destroyed a bit on the first cut already when this happens
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