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Old 10/25/15, 08:57 PM   #61
englewoodcowboy
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Lick Creek Restorations
 
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Duffy's 77 Build Thread- Restomod, daily, re-uncut

You can test fit it with a set of stock body mount bushings. AA makes a set of bee hive bushings that would work well (what they show in their instructions and they are VERY $$$ proud of them) but I just took mine to a belt sander and tapered them to clear.

BoxWood Green Poly '73 (o===o) 347 Stroker, FiTech Go EFI, Explorer Serp, 2.5" WH SL w/Bilsteins, AOD, Hydroboost PB, TrueTrac LS Rear, 4.88 gears, 35" BFG ATKO2, F150 Front Disc Brake, Factory PS, Family Cage ctsy Nick's Trix, AC, Stereo System, PWR Windows, Locks & Steps My Build.
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Old 10/25/15, 09:11 PM   #62
duffymahoney
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I bought new ones. The guy working on the frame- body has them.

Build Thread: Updated list of what I have done is on page one-
http://classicbroncos.com/forums/sho...d.php?t=259028
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Old 10/26/15, 06:44 PM   #63
duffymahoney
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Here is what I had to do to the bushings to get everything to clear. I cut out enough. Which is a relief.
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Build Thread: Updated list of what I have done is on page one-
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Old 10/26/15, 10:35 PM   #64
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Inner fenders and core support are in.
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Build Thread: Updated list of what I have done is on page one-
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Old 11/01/15, 01:39 PM   #65
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I test fit the speakers and decided they needed to be trimmed to work. I could have used a spacer but I don't like the looks of them. The PO cut the doors for 6.5" so I didn't have much of a choice.
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Old 11/01/15, 01:41 PM   #66
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My interior of my doors are pretty nice. With very little rust. Mostly just surface rust. I put por15 on as much as I could. I decided on truck bed liner (the rattle can kind) on the inside bottom. That way water and such and pour out without harming the door.

I am going to try and cover 100% of the inside of the door with por15. It's just hard to get to all the areas.
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Old 11/01/15, 08:25 PM   #67
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Front axel is back in. It's coming along!
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Build Thread: Updated list of what I have done is on page one-
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Old 11/07/15, 11:10 AM   #68
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I got the shift kit installed, the usshift guys write a very detailed instructions set. I also cleaned it better and painted it. I think it looks pretty awesome.
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Old 11/09/15, 11:28 AM   #69
mike mck
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Quote:
Originally Posted by duffymahoney View Post
Yeah, I wonder how long he has been doing this to people. I kind of felt like I am saving people from dealing with him.

I decided on a EFI high end restomod build. Since everything was toast.

I have a 16 year old kid doing the body work, him and his dad are doing it together.

I found a 88 mustang H.0. motor that I had mostly rebuilt by a friend. New rings, bearings, honed cylinder walls, valve seats and just fully gone through. It had 70k original miles. I powder coated all the pans, valve covers, intakes etc.. Then all silicone race hoses and vaccum hoses. I deleted the egr and spent hours and hours cleaning everything! EGR motors are dirty! I then had my buddy that owns a monster truck building company redo my c4 and D20. They are fully built with race internals and such. I then did twin sticks from wild horses. Turned out sweet!
What computer did you use for this set up? My 76 with a 351 has a Turbo city kit which is basically a chevy TBI set up. I have a mildly built 94 lightning motor so could drop it in and have the Ford multiport injection. Question is what computer to use. I'm running a C4 and twin sticks as well.
Help with your computer of choice would be great.
Just noticed you are not running the C4 and probably running your trans off the computer as well.
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Old 11/09/15, 11:58 AM   #70
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I am using a ECU from a 1990 Mustang. The 4R70W will use the USSHIFT by Baumann Electronic Controls.

You can buy the ECU from any junk yard or ebay. The lightning motor has a beautiful intake. I wish I had it!

Build Thread: Updated list of what I have done is on page one-
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Old 11/10/15, 11:20 PM   #71
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Getting ready to cut the stainless icon grill copy.
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Old 11/10/15, 11:21 PM   #72
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Here is the area I am cutting out of the original grill
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Old 11/11/15, 03:01 PM   #73
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I got my BC Broncos stainless headers and stainless 2-1 exhaust. The pipe bends are a little jagged, but overall they are nice. I am going to get rid of the burrs and polish all of it and use pickling paste on the muffler to get rid of the weld heat marks. It will keep the welds from rusting.
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Old 11/12/15, 09:57 AM   #74
duffymahoney
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I got my BC Broncos headers installed. This was a pain! I went with stainless bolts. I had to cut a allen wrench down to get into the tight corners and one bolt had to be the stock type. I will look for a stainless version. What a pain! They sure do look good though.

Fitting in the stock studs for the engine lift spots was impossible. I flipped them around and they fit. I hope they work this way. I can't see why they wouldn't.
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Build Thread: Updated list of what I have done is on page one-
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Old 11/12/15, 05:40 PM   #75
duffymahoney
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I got the body all media blasted, fully inside, out and under, doors, top etc.. The body panels were done with soda and a little copper slag mixed it for bite. The underbody was more copper slag. Its so nice have zero paint anywhere!
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