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Front end issues

Bronco John

Full Member
Joined
Mar 27, 2016
Messages
204
I know this has been discussed numerous times but I'm hard headed at least that's what the wife says.
Anyway I took my bronco out on the payment for first time EVER! ;D
It didn't handle quite like I hoped so my question is does my drag link and traction bar look right? I guess that's what you call the two that many say they should run parallel to each other. Btw I have a 3.5" lift and no drop pitman arm
As I said I have a 3.5" in front and looks like it sits a little low in rear, can you tell from pic what lift I may have going on in the rear?
 

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73AnneBoleyn

Bronco Guru
Joined
Mar 6, 2008
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1,045
Loc.
Charlotte, NC
Holy cow. A tech question I can actually answer. :cool:

No, they don't look right. The track bar and drag link need to run parallel to each other. Not really, really, close. Parallel. Yours are close. Gotta get closer. With a 3.5" lift, you'll need two things:
1. Drop pitman arm
2. Either a drop track bar bracket or a track bar riser.

That should get you dialed in nicely. Likely reason that you are sagging in the back is that the rear springs sag over time, more so if you're running a hard top and tire carrier. It's natural. There are several fixes for it. Lower the front, new leaf springs, shims, etc. Up to you.
 

Timmy390

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Joined
Jan 1, 2011
Messages
5,609
Loc.
Conway, AR
What tire pressure are you running?
What degree C bushings?
Do you have alignment numbers?

Caster can be a big issues wit 3.5 and higher lifts.

Tim
 

B RON CO

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Bronco Guru
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Jun 29, 2016
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Statesville, NC
Hi, good advice so far. First, the rear spring main leaf looks really thick. Do you know where they came from? You may have more lift in the front. Next, did you do the lift in the front, and do you know what c bushings you have? Next, as mentioned, the drop pitman arm and Trac bar will help. You need a big pitman arm puller and the Trac bar drop is weld in. You should figure out if you are keeping the rear springs as they are, do the pitman arm and Trac bar drop, 7 degree c bushings, ( also new strut arm bushings) before you take it for a front end alignment. Can you describe what is wrong with the handling? Did you read my recent Alignment Spec Check thread? Good luck with
 
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Bronco John

Bronco John

Full Member
Joined
Mar 27, 2016
Messages
204
My c bushings are toast planing on ordering those and radius arm bushings this week. I have no idea what brand lift it has, I bought as it sits. I did replace the steering stabilizer tho. I don't have it legal so my test drive was a one lane road out from my house so couldn't really tell a lot, just knew 35 was bout as fast as I wanted to go. It seemed like when I pushed the throttle hard it kinda felt better as far as steering wheel felt. If that makes sense, when I left off gas it kinda wanted to float around. The steering box seems tight if that matters, I only have to barely turn to see tires move. Also it has a track bar drop bracket welded in already.
 

B RON CO

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Hi, don't do the alignment until you finish up the work. Post a pic of the left side with the pitman arm and Trac bar. When you jack it up and support it with jack stands check the ball joints, tie rods, etc for play. Make sure the wheels swing smoothly from lock to lock. Turn the steering wheel lock to lock, and grab a wheel and swing it lock to lock. While you are ordering bushings, see if you need Trac bar bushings. I got 7 degree bushings on my 3 1/2" lift and it worked out great. Good luck
 
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Bronco John

Bronco John

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Mar 27, 2016
Messages
204
Hi, don't do the alignment until you finish up the work. Post a pic of the left side with the pitman arm and Trac bar. When you jack it up and support it with jack stands check the ball joints, tie rods, etc for play. Make sure the wheels swing smoothly from lock to lock. Turn the steering wheel lock to lock, and grab a wheel and swing it lock to lock. While you are ordering bushings, see if you need Trac bar bushings. I got 7 degree bushings on my 3 1/2" lift and it worked out great. Good luck

I know one tie rod end is bad. Haven't checked ball joints yet but they're pretty cheap so I'll prolly just replace them while I'm there. I hope I can slip a order by my wife this week for some C-bushings
 

Crawdad

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Joined
Feb 16, 2011
Messages
3,635
Chk ur radius arm bushings (where it attaches to frame) as well. If they are cracked go ahead and replace while u replace the C bushings in the front.
 

DirtDonk

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Bronco Guru
Joined
Nov 3, 2003
Messages
47,353
Hey John. Yep, there are a few "givens" with a lifted '74 Bronco.
With a 3.5" lift you MUST use at least a dropped pitman arm and a dropped trackbar bracket. As mentioned, there are risers as well, but whether one is best for you or not depends on what you intend to do with your truck.
The next item is just going all in and getting the 7° C-bushings. Yes, "officially" you should be able to get away with 4 degree offset bushings, but with most pre-'76 Broncos (most, but maybe not all) you need all the bushing you can get in there. The exception is whether or not you know for a fact what caster yours has, and what c-bushings you have, and what your pinion angle will tolerate.
But you don't know any of that until you get the old ones out, get it on an alignment rack, and check your pinion angle. But if you need new bushings anyway, it's a better than 90% good bet that you need 7's.

It's also a given that if any of your steering or suspension related components are wearing out, your Bronco's handling on the street won't be very much fun. Especially if you're new to old trucks and are not aware of just how funky they can be compared to a modern vehicle.
If you've driven them extensively, it's not so bad. But the first time? Sometimes it's that, "what did I get myself into" moment.;D

Ball joints actually are not that cheap when you count them times-4, add the labor if you're not doing it yourself, and even add a couple of eccentric sleeves if you want more caster or camber correction.
So that's actually one of the few things I would do AFTER the alignment is checked on a rack.
And speaking of which... Get the full printout from the technician. Or at least a quick phone pic of the screen. Or even a hand-written note showing all the parameters.
And don't let the tech tell you that you don't need this or that number "because they're not adjustable" either. Can't tell you how many members here have had to go back to the shop to get them to actually give out the info because the guy didn't think some crucial piece of info was needed.

Anyway, get that pitman arm on, get the c-bushings and go from there.

Good luck.

Paul
 

DirtDonk

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Nov 3, 2003
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47,353
Oh yeah, when you get the chance you should measure between the top of the axle tube and the bottom of the frame rails to verify your current lift.
The front would be approximately 7" stock, and the rear approximately 6" stock. So anything above those numbers is your lift.

The rear springs look like they have had a big-assed add-a-leaf added. And in the wrong spot actually, so maybe it wasn't even designed for a Bronco in the first place. No harm in that, but it doesn't always give the lift expected, doesn't do good things for the ride quality, and wears unevenly due to it rubbing the bottom of the rivet there near the tip.

Sounds like you just got the Bronco? Do you have any info on it, or can you still talk to the previous owner (the dreaded PO) by any chance when you need to know if something was done or not to it?

It's important to know some of this stuff with old Broncos, or your wife is going to have way more ammunition to use against you than you planned for!
Rear wheel bearings, all the lubricants, front wheel bearings, brakes, rust, seals, rust, stuff. etc.
All of them are important to deal with now that it's yours, and some are crucial. If you don't know whether or not the rear wheel bearings have ever been replaced, plan to do them in the near future. If the truck has more than 125k miles on it and you can't verify the bearings were replaced, plan to do it like yesterday!

Anyway, all dire notes aside, have a ton-o-fun with it. And the family included. Have kids? They'll love it! Happy wife, happy life? If you're really good at that stuff, she'll come around.;)

Paul
 

Apogee

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Nov 26, 2005
Messages
6,033
If the c-bushings are toast, so probably are the track bar bushings. Misalignment of the track bar and drag link will cause bump steer, but bad bushings, tire pressure, ball joints, worn TRE's, etc can and will cause floaty/wandering type symptoms.
 

JefeAZ

Bronco Guru
Joined
Aug 23, 2011
Messages
3,038
Loc.
Tucson
Bronco John, here is how mine looks with a 3.5" lift, track bar riser, adjustable track bar, and drop pitman arm

Now, Im not saying mine is correct as I have not driven it with this new setup yet but you can see how drastically different our setups are

attachment.php
 

B RON CO

Contributor
Bronco Guru
Joined
Jun 29, 2016
Messages
2,412
Loc.
Statesville, NC
Hi, as mentioned, just check the ball joints for wear. If you have the ball joint press, adapters, and socket give yourself a full day. I wouldn't be surprised if shops get $400 for the job. Fix what is worn out, set the toe with a tape measure ( necessary after changing the toe rod end), and go for a little drive. If your front end comes out looking like jefeAZ, you'll be in good shape. Post a picture like he did. Good luck
 
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Bronco John

Bronco John

Full Member
Joined
Mar 27, 2016
Messages
204
Oh yeah, when you get the chance you should measure between the top of the axle tube and the bottom of the frame rails to verify your current lift.
The front would be approximately 7" stock, and the rear approximately 6" stock. So anything above those numbers is your lift.

The rear springs look like they have had a big-assed add-a-leaf added. And in the wrong spot actually, so maybe it wasn't even designed for a Bronco in the first place. No harm in that, but it doesn't always give the lift expected, doesn't do good things for the ride quality, and wears unevenly due to it rubbing the bottom of the rivet there near the tip.

Sounds like you just got the Bronco? Do you have any info on it, or can you still talk to the previous owner (the dreaded PO) by any chance when you need to know if something was done or not to it?



It's important to know some of this stuff with old Broncos, or your wife is going to have way more ammunition to use against you than you planned for!
Rear wheel bearings, all the lubricants, front wheel bearings, brakes, rust, seals, rust, stuff. etc.
All of them are important to deal with now that it's yours, and some are crucial. If you don't know whether or not the rear wheel bearings have ever been replaced, plan to do them in the near future. If the truck has more than 125k miles on it and you can't verify the bearings were replaced, plan to do it like yesterday!

Anyway, all dire notes aside, have a ton-o-fun with it. And the family included. Have kids? They'll love it! Happy wife, happy life? If you're really good at that stuff, she'll come around.;)

Paul

Thanks for all that info. I did measure the front thats how I figured out what lift I have. PO dosn't have any info at all. Interesting about the rear add a leafs, not sure what you mean but gonna try to look some up to see the difference. I have new shocks in rear which helpped the ride but still rough so maybe thats the problem. I've replaced ball joints in my wifes 07 Tahoe they look pretty much the same so I think I can handle that job. I'm going with the 14 piece bushing kit and I think track bar bushings are in that also. I just redid my brakes but having trouble bleeding them, I'm moving forward thats all that matters.

I bought it 18 months ago. My wife is a stay at home mom so I rarely get extra money to spend on it. But its close to be put on the road. I have a 9 year old boy and 3 year old daddys girl. Lol
 
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Bronco John

Bronco John

Full Member
Joined
Mar 27, 2016
Messages
204
Bronco John, here is how mine looks with a 3.5" lift, track bar riser, adjustable track bar, and drop pitman arm

Now, Im not saying mine is correct as I have not driven it with this new setup yet but you can see how drastically different our setups are

attachment.php

Mine has the trac bar drop bracket but not the drop pitman arm which I think will make mine look like yours when I get it. Thanks for that pic I tried 3 times to get a good pic but failed. Lol I think my steering stabilizer blocks my shot.
 

DirtDonk

Contributor
Bronco Guru
Joined
Nov 3, 2003
Messages
47,353
Yep, trackbar bushings in the 14-pc kits.
The drop bracket will make yours even better, with not only the two bars more parallel, but also more in the same plane. So less "parallelogram" than Jefe's already nice setup.

The rear leaves still have their factory "overload" leaf you can see at the bottom. It's usually thicker than the rest, but flatter so is not in contact until you've loaded the back end down with enough junk to compress the springs.
In your case though, you can see the second from the bottom is super thick in the middle and is not a length that is consistent with the other leaves in the pack:
IMG_8204.jpg
See how it's front tip overlaps that big rivet that's holding the spring clamp? It's not shorter to clear the clamp, which means it's not really for a Bronco originally and has just been made to work. It still lifted the rear of the truck as intended, but is not quite "correct" in that position.
If something like that is to be used, the proper way is to undo the clamp and slip it in so that it's length coordinates with the rest of the leaves. In other words, each leaf gets progressively shorter than the one above it, without interfering with any hardware.
It's probably not hurting anything, but it's likely not helping the ride any at that thickness!

It might promote the leaves trying to fan out from each other, but since the clamp is still intact the factory leaves will likely stay lined up. Even factory leaf setups eventually start to flare (where one or more leaves spin till their tips are outside the pack) if things wear unevenly and work loose.

Paul
 
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