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Turn Signal Switch - OEM/Dennis Carpenter vs. Aftermarket

Fireball05

Bronco Guru
Joined
Oct 7, 2012
Messages
1,822
Guys -

One of my turn signal cancel cams is broken. I bought a new steering wheel, have the dash out to have it painted and getting things sorted out. The idea of driving down the road with my left blinker unknowingly on is almost too much to bear!

That being said, what is everyone's experience with the aftermarket switches?

$45 gets you this one: http://broncograveyard.com/bronco/i-17043A-switch-signal-74-77-manual-aftermarket.html

and $95 for this one:http://broncograveyard.com/bronco/i-17043-switch-signal-74-77-manual-oem.html

It looks like WH and TPB also sell the aftermarket ones. I'm pretty sure the pricier one from JBG is the Dennis Carpenter unit. Anyone know if that extra $50 is worth it? That's a pretty decent extra charge, but then again, it's a pretty decent PITA to replace this thing considering all the wires and steps involved.

Thanks in advance for any help!
 

Viperwolf1

Contributor
electron whisperer
Joined
Aug 23, 2007
Messages
24,316
You can replace just the cam arms but it's a big PIA working with the short wires. I usually prefer to replace the entire switch. BTW, I haven't broke an arm since I started using the stock cam with aftermarket steering wheels.
 

rmiller747

Bronco Guru
Joined
May 11, 2009
Messages
1,102
Loc.
Highland, Mi
Just my experience. I bought the cheaper aftermarket from JBG and installed it this past summer. Lasted 3 months and the cam is broke already. installed with an aftermarket Toms wheel.

I since bought the pricier one and installed. So far so good...only 3 months on this one too.

Not sure if you can install it wrong or if it is cheaper or just broke. I didnt really see a difference in the more expensive one. And everything appeared to be installed correctly the first time.


Not sure if this is much help, just my experience.
 
OP
OP
Fireball05

Fireball05

Bronco Guru
Joined
Oct 7, 2012
Messages
1,822
Rmiller - will be interesting to see what happens with the new one. Any install advice I'll need when it comes time?

Viper - I will definitely buy the entire switch assembly. I searched before posting this and found an old thread where you trades messages with someone trying to replace the cam arms and it didn't look like fun!

FWIW, I'm using a stock wheel. Or rather a Dennis Carpenter remake of the '76 steering wheel.
 

casadejohnson

Bronco Alchemist
Joined
Jan 21, 2005
Messages
3,587
I can't speak for all aftermarket steering wheels but I have never had good luck with the Grant steering wheels. The roll pins used to cancel seem like they are designed to break the cams. In my opinion it's a crappy design.

Phil, I like your idea of adapting the aftermarket wheel with the parts from a stock wheel. I have had my eye on an aftermarket wheel for my 66 but the adapters have been keeping me from pulling the trigger.
 

Casey835

Sr. Member
Joined
Mar 8, 2008
Messages
759
i bought a rebuilt column, so far it seems to be good. I did have a small issue with the brand new turn sig switch that came in it, didnt function correctly. I was able to repair it so I did not contact vendor and time will tell if switch holds up. I have no idea which quality it was either. The little wire inside was making contact when it shouldnt have.
 

blubuckaroo

Grease Monkey
Joined
Jun 11, 2007
Messages
11,795
Loc.
Ridgefield WA
The turn signal cancelling arm has a problem with the roll pin used on a Grant hub. There is a small barb on the end of the plastic cancelling arm that needs to be filed off. Here's the write-up but I can't seem to attach the photos...

If you install any of the Grant Steering wheels, your torn signal cancelers are likely to break off on the first cold day (if they haven’t all ready). After several expensive replacements, I finally discovered what was happening. Your stock steering wheel had a cam to contact the cancelers while the Grant horn kit comes with two roll pins to contact the cancelers. When you turn the steering wheel in the direction of the turn the roll pins usually work well. However, when the steering wheel returns the roll pins catch a very small tab on the backside of the canceler causing a distinct clicking. This clicking is the roll pin snagging, and on colder days when the plastic canceler arm is more brittle, they snap off and there goes another eighty some odd dollars.

In order to have your turn signals still function properly you must make the following adjustments:

First, you have to file or grind off the canceling arms* I found a Die-Grinder worked the best while the switch was on the vehicle although taking the canceler assembly off is preferable. In any case, you may have to do final grinding or filing after the installing the assembler to obtain proper and equal clearance between the steering shaft and the cancelers. The overall length of the arm should end up about 7/8" on the top canceler arm and 13/16" on the lower. You may have to experiment a bit for you particular vehicle. You should be able to pass a 3/8” bolt in between the steering shaft and the canceler.



*Remember to grind or file the cam off both sides of each canceler.



After you finish the canceler arms, if you did not purchase a “deep dish” style steering wheel you will have to bend the turn signal arm back away from the Grant Steering Wheels. Most of the Grant wheel designs have to shallow a dish to provide room for the driver. Use a piece of wood, cut the wood to the correct length to fit between the steering wheel and dash for support. Use a piece of cloth or cardboard to protect the dash. Make sure the shaft is all of the way screwed in and tight, then carefully bend the knob away from the wheel to give enough clearance that your hand or fingers do not hit the knob while turning the wheel.



Last, the wire on the supplied horn kit is to long so it will need rerouting below the steering shaft nut. You may need to use a piece of electrical tape to help hold it in place.

P.S. I use Hockey tape for electrical connections and wire bundling as FMC does in late model vehicles.
 
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