• Welcome to ClassicBroncos! - You are currently viewing the forums as a GUEST. To take advantage of all the site features, please take a moment to register. It's fast, simple and absolutely free. So please join our community today!
    If you have problems registering or can't log into your account, please contact Admin.

74 Explorer (swap) - The "Great Pumpkin" Build

OP
OP
1buckeyefan1

1buckeyefan1

Contributor
Sr. Member
Joined
Sep 21, 2017
Messages
629
So i had an urge to take a wire brush and see what lied below 1/2" of bondo on the passenger side. WTF happened? It looks like the PO took a drill to it and started creating a connect-the-dot puzzle w/ very poorly aligned holes.

The driver side had slightly less bondo, but has some serious dents and a few holes + cancer. I have a spare OEM/Carpenter rocker. I can't decide if I should patch it w/ pieces left from the passenger side (if there is anything usable) vs. drilling out and replacing it all?
 

Attachments

  • passenger rocker.jpg
    passenger rocker.jpg
    96.4 KB · Views: 92
  • driver rocker 2.jpg
    driver rocker 2.jpg
    126.7 KB · Views: 80
Last edited:

Galt72

Contributor
Newbie
Joined
Apr 21, 2004
Messages
617
that's the old school way of pulling dents. Drill a bunch of holes and use a puller on it. I'd drill it out rocker and replace it. Your going to find rust between the panels and your going to be so much happier when you know it's all clean straight metal. The spot weld drill bits from Harbor freight work pretty well with a little wd40
 
OP
OP
1buckeyefan1

1buckeyefan1

Contributor
Sr. Member
Joined
Sep 21, 2017
Messages
629
that's the old school way of pulling dents. Drill a bunch of holes and use a puller on it. I'd drill it out rocker and replace it. Your going to find rust between the panels and your going to be so much happier when you know it's all clean straight metal. The spot weld drill bits from Harbor freight work pretty well with a little wd40

ah, that explains it much more. I've seen the welded studs for pulling dents, forgot about the drill a sh** ton of holes method.

Coincidentally, I picked up another 3x of the HF spot weld bits earlier today + a welding blanket for when I get to the front.. Does anyone have a good source for the removable head part or do you just throw away the shaft when you're done w/ both ends? I learned the hard way early on that you have to keep it square to conserve the teeth. Do they ever go on sale for less than $4.99? I think I have 5 in reserve now. L
 
OP
OP
1buckeyefan1

1buckeyefan1

Contributor
Sr. Member
Joined
Sep 21, 2017
Messages
629
Front clip replaced!

Making some progress this month w/ time off work. Got the front inner fenders replaced and found the the drivers front wheel tub was crumpled from a previous accident and barely hanging in by a couple of welds. Replaced it too, the JBG replacement metal was a spot on match.

Fortunately the core support was pretty solid, which helped minimize alignment issues (I think).
 

Attachments

  • front wheel tubs compared.jpg
    front wheel tubs compared.jpg
    115.5 KB · Views: 55
  • drivers inner fender welded.jpg
    drivers inner fender welded.jpg
    173.2 KB · Views: 55
  • rusted passenger inner fender.jpg
    rusted passenger inner fender.jpg
    112.7 KB · Views: 52
  • drivers inner tub before removal.jpg
    drivers inner tub before removal.jpg
    172.8 KB · Views: 47
  • drivers inner fender before.jpg
    drivers inner fender before.jpg
    186 KB · Views: 50
OP
OP
1buckeyefan1

1buckeyefan1

Contributor
Sr. Member
Joined
Sep 21, 2017
Messages
629
After gaining some confidence + experience from the front, i decided to move onto the passenger rear quarter. The lower had a bit of rust, but the inner was pretty much gone at the seam line. I followed one of the earlier how-to and cut it out about an inch from the seams and carefully drilled out the spot welds and tried avoid using the air chisel in order to keep the original metal intact.

The only positive surprise is after grinding away a 1/2" of bondo, the tail light section looks to be in decent shape. It seems the PO butt welded it in (after i presume it came loose from the swing-away spare mount) and decided to fill it in vs welding it back correctly/internally. Although I have a new tail light section already purchased, I think I'm going to try and save this one.
 

Attachments

  • passenger side inner quarter installed.jpg
    passenger side inner quarter installed.jpg
    167.1 KB · Views: 50
  • rear tub patch.jpg
    rear tub patch.jpg
    133.7 KB · Views: 43
  • rear tub rust.jpg
    rear tub rust.jpg
    119.8 KB · Views: 46
  • RH fender open.jpg
    RH fender open.jpg
    169 KB · Views: 43
  • passenger quarter cut.jpg
    passenger quarter cut.jpg
    159.1 KB · Views: 45
  • passenger quarter before removal.jpg
    passenger quarter before removal.jpg
    175.8 KB · Views: 41
  • passenger quarter before.jpg
    passenger quarter before.jpg
    121.3 KB · Views: 43
OP
OP
1buckeyefan1

1buckeyefan1

Contributor
Sr. Member
Joined
Sep 21, 2017
Messages
629
Rear Quarters in

So it's been a pretty productive week off. I got the inner/lower quarters cut out, determined I can salvage the rear tail light extension (I have read too many stories on trying to get those to fit well). So despite having already purchased one, I think i'm going to delete the old spare bracket holes and do some body work on it)

I think I have the correct sequence of how to remove/replace everything.

1. I'm going to re-weld the inner quarter + floor extension
2. then remove the outer rocker.
3. Weld in the lower quarter (I really wish the new flared quarters were out and I would use those. It sorta hurts to weld in a new panel and then rough/flare cut it)
4.) weld in the rear extension
5.) weld in the outer rocker

I'm still stumped on the top/rear door gap. I don't think the striker post has moved.. as I had it braced until I put the door back on and there is no slack. I really hope I can decrease the gap by working with the door a bit more.

I also need to bump up the inner quarter about 1/4". It's riding directly on the door striker post right now.

btw, i thought I read another build thread where they found a wrench behind the door post? Yep, I found a 1/2" wrench in mine as well as a old "Big Mountain" button...along with an inch of gunk that helped rot out 2 nice sized holes in the post.

Any words of wisdom/experience before I weld in a colossal multi-week setback?
 

Attachments

  • door rear gap.jpg
    door rear gap.jpg
    38.4 KB · Views: 43
  • full body line 2.jpg
    full body line 2.jpg
    129.2 KB · Views: 39
  • rear tub patch.jpg
    rear tub patch.jpg
    133.7 KB · Views: 42
  • rear tub rust.jpg
    rear tub rust.jpg
    119.8 KB · Views: 45
  • wrench in passenger door post.jpg
    wrench in passenger door post.jpg
    71.8 KB · Views: 41
  • passenger side inner quarter installed.jpg
    passenger side inner quarter installed.jpg
    167.1 KB · Views: 36
  • passenger quarter cut.jpg
    passenger quarter cut.jpg
    159.1 KB · Views: 35
  • passenger quarter before.jpg
    passenger quarter before.jpg
    121.3 KB · Views: 36
  • door high.jpg
    door high.jpg
    93.9 KB · Views: 35
  • passenger bottom door gap.jpg
    passenger bottom door gap.jpg
    81.7 KB · Views: 36
  • rear extension gap.jpg
    rear extension gap.jpg
    52 KB · Views: 41
  • door front gap.jpg
    door front gap.jpg
    47.3 KB · Views: 38
Last edited:

bronkenn

Contributor
Bronco Guy
Joined
Apr 27, 2017
Messages
2,662
Loc.
Southeast Ohio
That is looking good. Sure is a lot of work especially working with new sheet metal. A little at a time and before you know it, its done. Ken
 

1strodeo

Squirrel Watcher
Joined
Sep 15, 2016
Messages
3,596
Loc.
Wisconsin
Looks like somebody had a holiday weekend ;D keep it up man

I gotta get a garage heater, I didn't go in the garage all weekend, except to get a beer...speaking of, I think the fridge is keeping the beer from freezing %)

-25 wind chill this morning :mad:
 

Rocko1012

Full Member
Joined
Nov 20, 2016
Messages
225
Looking good, What are you using to drill out the spot welds? Spot welds are killing me, eating up bits from Harbor Freight.
Thanks
 
OP
OP
1buckeyefan1

1buckeyefan1

Contributor
Sr. Member
Joined
Sep 21, 2017
Messages
629
Looking good, What are you using to drill out the spot welds? Spot welds are killing me, eating up bits from Harbor Freight.
Thanks

I'm using the same HF bits too. I think I've gone through 5 so far (both sides of the bit). I've got some wax that helps w/ cutting, but the biggest destroyer is when they hop out of the pilot hole. very few of the welds are perfectly flat, so when it hops, I break a few teeth and curse. I've destroyed a bit on the first cut already when this happens :(
 

bronkenn

Contributor
Bronco Guy
Joined
Apr 27, 2017
Messages
2,662
Loc.
Southeast Ohio
I have been using the rotobroach cutters for years. They last a long time and do a good job. I used them back in the late 70's and on while changing side panels and fenders and other sheet metal on GM trucks in the factory. They lasted the longest and you could go through one layer of metal at a time. Ken
 
OP
OP
1buckeyefan1

1buckeyefan1

Contributor
Sr. Member
Joined
Sep 21, 2017
Messages
629
door panels have arrived!

Just got a package today and am pretty happy with how the ebay-sourced door panels turned out. The script isn't as prominent upright and the vinyl material has a nice texture to it.

Here's hoping I'll be able to install them in 6-9 mos :)
 

Attachments

  • bronco panels.jpg
    bronco panels.jpg
    230.3 KB · Views: 73
OP
OP
1buckeyefan1

1buckeyefan1

Contributor
Sr. Member
Joined
Sep 21, 2017
Messages
629
Fitment takes time..

So everyone has complained about the fitment of the aftermarket tail light extensions.. yeah, they suck. Mine are about 1/8" longer and don't fit nearly as tight onto the original flanges. However the tailgate body line still looks pretty good, so I'm going to try and find a way to make them work. If my original didn't have all of the tire rack holes & associated dents, broken top flange, etc, I'd have tried to use it. But alas I already had the repro extension sitting there and couldn't resist making it work. I don't have the confidence yet I could split & section it to "shrink" it yet and make it look good enough for the body guy not to have to spend hours fixing it.

On a positive note, I replaced all of the body mounts and removed the redneck 1" square tube "extra" body lift kit. Back to 2" body lift now. I also measured my axle to the frame and it appears that i'm at standard height (7")?

I'm becoming more happy with the door gaps. I had to add a small shim to the rear body mount to tighten the gap a bit. There was nothing I could do to the panel to close it.
 

Attachments

  • body line v3.jpg
    body line v3.jpg
    96.9 KB · Views: 32
  • door gaps.jpg
    door gaps.jpg
    59.2 KB · Views: 38
  • rear panel gaps.jpg
    rear panel gaps.jpg
    73.1 KB · Views: 41
OP
OP
1buckeyefan1

1buckeyefan1

Contributor
Sr. Member
Joined
Sep 21, 2017
Messages
629
I also got around to removing the passenger rocker over the long weekend. Surprisingly the HF spot weld remover lasted through the entire panel. It seems that I need to drill pilot holes to keep it from skipping out.. as once it skips and catches elsewhere the teeth are destroyed.

I was happy to find that the inner rocker was in solid shape. The front door post had a rotten "cap" a the bottom that I had to cut out a new patch for it. What are these called anyhow? It's the little cap that fits into the bottom of the front door post. I can't find them listed on any of the major vendor sites.
 

Attachments

  • passenger rocker before.jpg
    passenger rocker before.jpg
    179.6 KB · Views: 53
  • passenger rocker removed.jpg
    passenger rocker removed.jpg
    127.8 KB · Views: 52
OP
OP
1buckeyefan1

1buckeyefan1

Contributor
Sr. Member
Joined
Sep 21, 2017
Messages
629
And we're back!

Alright.. it's embarrassing how long the pumpkin has been in hiding.. as cliche as it sounds, life & a 2-yr house remodel took priority over my build.

I've been picking up parts & knowledge though over the last few years.. so all is not lost. Oh, and I remembered to pay up on my site contributor status so I can post some pictures of my progress. As I look back on many of the previous build threads, i've found that the pictures are invaluable.. both in understanding how someone else braced up their 4R70W crossmember, or how to figure something out w/ the collective wisdom.

Here's my update:
1.) found/modified a rotisserie. I read in a thread that 2" steel tube will flex and it sure does. I think i have braced everything well and don't plan to weld any further while it's on the cart, but I should be able to strip the bottom and raptor line it while I work on the frame. Good news is that I found both stamped VIN's in the frame and they match!

2.) bought a donor 2001 Mountaineer. I'll admit, this is the most intimidating part (and wouldn't have tackled it if not for these forums)...but I really want EFI and an overdrive transmission. have both sitting and waiting to be cleaned up. EFIGuy knocked out the harness and I've got the AA adapter kit. Still need to regear at 4.56, but have the parts.. hoping to find someone local that will reasonably install it for me. Found a 23gal tank, external fuel pump, as well as the 4R70W crossmember. Still need the broncohut shorty headers as well as modifying/new drivehshafts

I'll probably lean on the forums heavily over the next few mos.. so I appreciate all of the sage advice in advance. My goal is to get it in epoxy primer and running again by spring.. to hopefully make room for a 2021 Bronco to park next to it
 

Attachments

  • rotisserie.jpg
    rotisserie.jpg
    127.4 KB · Views: 39
  • body removed.jpg
    body removed.jpg
    134.6 KB · Views: 45
  • body on cart.jpg
    body on cart.jpg
    118.7 KB · Views: 43
  • donor.jpg
    donor.jpg
    191.3 KB · Views: 42
Last edited:
OP
OP
1buckeyefan1

1buckeyefan1

Contributor
Sr. Member
Joined
Sep 21, 2017
Messages
629
So the frame looked surprisingly good with the body off. as mentioned, I found both (matching) serial numbers. Looks like the body was off at some point previously though and someone decided to additional mig weld alot of the suspension components (was told it was run hard in new mexico prevously). i cleaned up some of the welds.

Only repair seems to be the rear body mounts. Fortunately, I picked up some bronco graveyard frame savers some time back. i'll post another pic when they're welded in.
 

Attachments

  • driver side frame.jpg
    driver side frame.jpg
    77 KB · Views: 44
  • pass side frame.jpg
    pass side frame.jpg
    84.4 KB · Views: 43
  • frame savers.jpg
    frame savers.jpg
    137.9 KB · Views: 42

Rustytruck

Bronco Guru
Joined
Feb 24, 2002
Messages
10,875
looks like your on a roll now, right down the rabbit hole you didn't want to go. it get frustrating once you get it painted and takes so long to get it in the driving condition. 2 more summers and you will be done. then looking for another one.
 

markatherton

Sponsor/Vendor
Bronco Guru
Joined
Aug 11, 2004
Messages
1,867
explorer

Your 73 explorer has the same misprint in the Marti as mine; Says front bench seat.
 
OP
OP
1buckeyefan1

1buckeyefan1

Contributor
Sr. Member
Joined
Sep 21, 2017
Messages
629
Your 73 explorer has the same misprint in the Marti as mine; Says front bench seat.

Hah, good eye. I never noticed that. I still have the original bucket seats (rear is long gone). still holding out hope that I can find an old set w/ the indian blanket pattern so I can go back to stock someday.
 
Top