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Cummins 4bt Luber Build Thread(Off road video added)!!)

Dave

Contributor
Bronco Guru
Joined
Aug 25, 2006
Messages
2,190
I had the frame sandblasted and I used Eastwood's Extreme Chassis Satin. It seems pretty durable so far.

I did my frame with the same stuff. It's not quite as durable as I had hoped. Everything looks great!
 
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Dbteak

Dbteak

Sr. Member
Joined
May 23, 2006
Messages
438
The 4bt ran about 3k. Then there was the ford adapter, starter, inter cooler, etc. I don't look back to see how much I've spent, I just look at my checkbook and see how much I can spend tomorrow.;D
 

Pa PITT

Contributor
Bronco Guru
Joined
Jul 15, 2005
Messages
11,252
Loc.
Stephenville TEXAS
Well I suppose it would fit .. but it would sure be longer than say my NP435 ..
....I don't think the 400 is as long as say the C6. Someone else can chime in here.
But every time I say some thing won't fit some one put it in our Broncos.
 

68 Bronco Sport

Jr. Member
Joined
Feb 4, 2011
Messages
88
Somebody on another site told me about your build. Looks great! I'm looking to do the same thing. I noticed you dropped the front cross member down to lower the engine. Did you do that to lower the center of gravity, to fit under the hood or to fit under the body with no body lift (or all three)? I'm starting my build on my 68 Bronco Sport I got two weeks ago in preparation for a 4BT. I've been told you can squeeze one in with a 1" body lift, but it would be better with a 2" body lift. Your thoughts/plans?

Look forward to seeing more.
 
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Dbteak

Dbteak

Sr. Member
Joined
May 23, 2006
Messages
438
I tried to use the crankshaft center line of a v8 motor as a guide so I wouldn't mess up my drive line angles and it would be a stock engine tilt. I ended up within a half an inch from the V8 measurements. I also used the stock transmission mounts put the motor mounts where they fell.


Doug
 
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Dbteak

Dbteak

Sr. Member
Joined
May 23, 2006
Messages
438
I've been told you can squeeze one in with a 1" body lift, but it would be better with a 2" body lift. Your thoughts/plans?

The way I ran my after cooler piping I will need the 2" body lift and if I use the stock hood, I will have to cut out the front hood bracing. I also had to make a new inlet elbow spacer to lower the tubing as close as I could to the motor to clear the middle hood support.

I have a P-pump injector pump and it is configured a little different. Using a VE pump you may get away with a 1" body lift.

I had pictures of the inter cooler piping all installed but I cant find them to show how I plumbed the motor.

Doug
 
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Dbteak

Dbteak

Sr. Member
Joined
May 23, 2006
Messages
438
Pics of my starter that Mean Green modified for me. They made a new front housing that is clockable to clear the frame. They didn't sent the starter spacer back so I can't install it yet. Mean Green was going to send me the spacer and then remake the piece with the spacer built into it. I plan on a new thread covering the starter when I get all the details on cost and how it fits.
The starter with the new piece is on the work bench.


Doug
 

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Dbteak

Dbteak

Sr. Member
Joined
May 23, 2006
Messages
438
Probably 4000 in the motor swap once everything is done. I wanted the newer injection pump so the motor was more than most.

Doug
 
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Dbteak

Dbteak

Sr. Member
Joined
May 23, 2006
Messages
438
what else did you need to purchase for the swap?

As in the previous post with the motor running, that was off of the shipping pallet so I could see if the motor actually ran. The rest was the after cooler, after cooler piping and gaskets and paint. I had all the steel for the motor mounts and cross member.

Doug
 
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