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Heater Motor Upgrade

OX1

Bronco Guru
Joined
Aug 26, 2003
Messages
3,458
Good question. I know it's come up many times, but I don't remember anyone ever mentioning that they did both, or had two Broncos side-by-side where they could be compared.
That would be a very interesting thread.
I don't have a problem with the Chevy part, especially as a long used tried-and-true fix. But if I can use a Ford part that's just as good, I like that idea even more.

I just meant, how well it fits, doubt there is much perf difference,
cages look about the same. Anyway, have my F250 stuff on order, will
start a new thread on install..............
 

half cab

Contributor
Guru Bronco
Joined
Dec 8, 2010
Messages
16,306
I have mentioned this in other threads that I put a blower motor out of an F100 (late 60's-early 70's) in my '76 and can't imagine needing one to blow any harder. It was plug n play. Blows way more then the original Bronco one did.
 

sprdv1

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REBEL
Joined
Mar 8, 2007
Messages
81,734
I have mentioned this in other threads that I put a blower motor out of an F100 (late 60's-early 70's) in my '76 and can't imagine needing one to blow any harder. It was plug n play. Blows way more then the original Bronco one did.

did you document the part #....?
 

sprdv1

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REBEL
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Mar 8, 2007
Messages
81,734
Or, depending where you live, time to park it! They’ve been itching to salt the roads here in Dayton and it hasn’t gotten below 35

Very good point... I hope it don't get that bad around here....
 

sprdv1

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REBEL
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Mar 8, 2007
Messages
81,734
Great news... :)

Did the upgrade today. Huge improvement. I originally wanted to use the new motor and existing cage, so I didn't have to cut the heater box but the old cage doesn't fit with the new motor (it's about 1/2" taller). New cage and new motor fit with about 1/4" trimming on the box.

I tested it for awhile on high with lights and blinker on trying to overload the system and 20amp heater fuse. Fuse got hot, but did not burn out. I picked up some 25amp fuses just in case too. I love this site and thank you for everyone's help and tips!

I used Advanced Auto/Carquest $32:
35587 Motor
35602 Cage
 

surfer-b

Contributor
Bronco Guru
Joined
Sep 7, 2006
Messages
2,972
You mean put it before the switch?
I've used a single one in the high speed circuit after the switch, but could see using two after the switch too. One for high and one for low. I don't think I've used one before the switch before. But that would certainly simplify things.
Would not take any load off the switch itself, but the switch is not usually the problem anyway. And it would still take the load off of the rest of the stock wiring and fuses and associated contacts.

Or are you talking about just the high-speed side getting a relay?

Paul
yes I should have made this clear. I do place the relay before the switch, like you stated it doesn't take the load off but I have never had a problem with the switch. Two relays could be used to take the load off the switch but its just extra wire under the dash.
 

lonesouth

Contributor
Bronco Guru
Joined
Dec 18, 2003
Messages
5,045
checked my fuse, problem was twofold. 1. the fuse link was cracked at the cap, looked good, but was broken. 2. the fuse holder, in the fuse block, was so corroded that it prevented reliable contact. A little dremel work and a new fuse and I'm back in business.
 

Ferrumsoccer

Jr. Member
Joined
Apr 3, 2013
Messages
61
Loc.
Richmond
Thanks, I did the upgrade. On high, A LOT of fan and heat, BUT....no low fan......did I miss something? Had low and high fan speed before. Did I "knock" one the plugs on the back side off? The resistor plug with the two wires? Alright bronco brothers, let me know. Cheers.
 

DirtDonk

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Bronco Guru
Joined
Nov 3, 2003
Messages
47,355
That's as likely a culprit as anything else at this point. You should be able to reach around and feel the connections initially.

But you can also check the switch on the dash to make sure power is coming out of both contacts.
Did you place the Brown power wire on the center post? The Red (low) and Orange (high) wires should be good and tight on the posts to either side of the Brown wire.

Paul
 

sprdv1

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Messages
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checked my fuse, problem was twofold. 1. the fuse link was cracked at the cap, looked good, but was broken. 2. the fuse holder, in the fuse block, was so corroded that it prevented reliable contact. A little dremel work and a new fuse and I'm back in business.

Perfect. Just a little time and effort and good to go
 

Ferrumsoccer

Jr. Member
Joined
Apr 3, 2013
Messages
61
Loc.
Richmond
That's as likely a culprit as anything else at this point. You should be able to reach around and feel the connections initially.

But you can also check the switch on the dash to make sure power is coming out of both contacts.
Did you place the Brown power wire on the center post? The Red (low) and Orange (high) wires should be good and tight on the posts to either side of the Brown wire.

Paul

Paul,

Well done! It was actually the low wire from the back of the switch. I must have knocked it off when I moved the defrost hose......thanks again buddy!
 

chuckyb

Contributor
Sr. Member
Joined
Oct 25, 2016
Messages
941
Heater upgrade with NAPA parts

Hi all, this is a great thread and I wanted to post up my experience with doing this upgrade. One thing I wanted to avoid was cutting into the metal “mushroom” in the back of the heater box and I wanted to have a clean install that looked as factory as possible. The NAPA parts below worked to accomplish this.

I used these parts and supplies for the project:
NAPA blower motor: 655-1039
NAPA fan: 655-1406
NAPA heater core
Wild Horses Air Inlet Duct Kit
Repop heater foam kit
SEMS plastic painting products
Rivet tool kit from Home Depot -approx $20
Loctite adhesive

First off was disassembling and cleaning the heater box. One thing I wished I had done right off the bat was drill out the rivets on the box for better cleaning and painting. I did eventually do this later on and it was easy. I used the SEMS products to clean and recondition the fiberglass part of the heater box. I also used the SEMS to restore my original vent assemblies. I used black POR-15 on the metal parts.

As mentioned, I didn’t want to cut into the mushroom in the box to accommodate the fan. I found that the NAPA fan was just the right size. It was at this point that I drilled out the eight or so rivets that holds the box together. Due to the extra width of the fan, it will not fit into the box any other way than taking out the rivets. It took a bit of time to figure out the foam kit. I used some rubber bands to hold the foam to the doors while the adhesive dried.

I also did not want to drill new holes into the fiberglass to install the new heater motor. After I bench tested the motor, I marked the hole pattern onto the flange of the heater motor and drilled new holes into the flange instead. I feel it is stronger this way and it let me reuse the factory screws. Using the rivet tool was super easy to get the box back together nicely and then I used a bit of black touch up paint on the new rivets to make them less noticeable. For the electrical connections, I made a simple ground wire which I plan to install to the dash. I also made a feed using a bullet connector so that I can attach the new motor to the factory wire harness.

Last thing, I like the Wild Horses air duct kit. It includes a new end piece for the heater box so that the round shaped hose included in the kit fits perfectly. Nice job as always WH! Obviously, I can’t tell you how much better my heat works yet, but I am looking forward to finding out.
 

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Last edited:

73azbronco

Contributor
Bronco Guru
Joined
Nov 11, 2007
Messages
7,796
Somehow I screwed this simple process up beyond belief. I had a new in box fan from a f250/ranger, no idea where i got it from but it must be the right one right? no. cut the opening to get it to fit and wallah, did not fit, it rubbed, etc. i had to buy another used box and graft on the original mount with jb weld to repair my buffoonery.
 

sprdv1

Contributor
REBEL
Joined
Mar 8, 2007
Messages
81,734
Good stuff chucky..

Hi all, this is a great thread and I wanted to post up my experience with doing this upgrade. One thing I wanted to avoid was cutting into the metal “mushroom” in the back of the heater box and I wanted to have a clean install that looked as factory as possible. The NAPA parts below worked to accomplish this.

I used these parts and supplies for the project:
NAPA blower motor: 655-1039
NAPA fan: 655-1406
NAPA heater core
Wild Horses Air Inlet Duct Kit
Repop heater foam kit
SEMS plastic painting products
Rivet tool kit from Home Depot -approx $20
Loctite adhesive

First off was disassembling and cleaning the heater box. One thing I wished I had done right off the bat was drill out the rivets on the box for better cleaning and painting. I did eventually do this later on and it was easy. I used the SEMS products to clean and recondition the fiberglass part of the heater box. I also used the SEMS to restore my original vent assemblies. I used black POR-15 on the metal parts.

As mentioned, I didn’t want to cut into the mushroom in the box to accommodate the fan. I found that the NAPA fan was just the right size. It was at this point that I drilled out the eight or so rivets that holds the box together. Due to the extra width of the fan, it will not fit into the box any other way than taking out the rivets. It took a bit of time to figure out the foam kit. I used some rubber bands to hold the foam to the doors while the adhesive dried.

I also did not want to drill new holes into the fiberglass to install the new heater motor. After I bench tested the motor, I marked the hole pattern onto the flange of the heater motor and drilled new holes into the flange instead. I feel it is stronger this way and it let me reuse the factory screws. Using the rivet tool was super easy to get the box back together nicely and then I used a bit of black touch up paint on the new rivets to make them less noticeable. For the electrical connections, I made a simple ground wire which I plan to install to the dash. I also made a feed using a bullet connector so that I can attach the new motor to the factory wire harness.

Last thing, I like the Wild Horses air duct kit. It includes a new end piece for the heater box so that the round shaped hose included in the kit fits perfectly. Nice job as always WH! Obviously, I can’t tell you how much better my heat works yet, but I am looking forward to finding out.
 
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