351w EFI install

roundhouse · Nov 9, 2017

You could try advancing the timing until it pings going up a hill and then back off a little

I've had a couple of vehicles that I'm pretty sure the timing marks were not correct because i could advance them to about 25* before they pinged

KyleQ · Nov 9, 2017

roundhouse said:
You could try advancing the timing until it pings going up a hill and then back off a little

I've had a couple of vehicles that I'm pretty sure the timing marks were not correct because i could advance them to about 25* before they pinged

Same thing with mine - I don't really care what numbers are there, I just want the power. I don't even have a timing pointer on my old motor, just advanced until it pinged, retarded it until it started while hot and bounce it relentlessly off the rev limiter with the cheapest 87* fuel I could put in it. I beat that poor motor like it was my mortgage payment every time I ran it and it never gave up, never burned oil and always got me where I needed to go. EFI Guy tuned it and helped me get the parts together - nothing but success.

I ran a 351W with that B.C. adapter with the car upper and the power sucked, the mustang intake helped a little bit on top of that, but still poor. Going to the Typhoon intakes made a HUGE difference. They are taller, but totally worth it.

lonesouth · Nov 9, 2017

KyleQ said:
Same thing with mine - I don't really care what numbers are there, I just want the power. I don't even have a timing pointer on my old motor, just advanced until it pinged, retarded it until it started while hot and bounce it relentlessly off the rev limiter with the cheapest 87* fuel I could put in it. I beat that poor motor like it was my mortgage payment every time I ran it and it never gave up, never burned oil and always got me where I needed to go. EFI Guy tuned it and helped me get the parts together - nothing but success.

I ran a 351W with that B.C. adapter with the car upper and the power sucked, the mustang intake helped a little bit on top of that, but still poor. Going to the Typhoon intakes made a HUGE difference. They are taller, but totally worth it.

Will the typhoon fit with a 1” BL?

Replaced the IAC and this thing just wants to run at 1,000rpm. I checked for vacuum leaks and there are none. Cleaned the MAF sensor. Doesn’t look like the TPS could do it. Adjusting the throttle plates at idle made it a little more driveable, though. Before, it would be sticky going from idle to part throttle. I figured this was due to the idle stop screw being too far out, much better now.

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KyleQ · Nov 11, 2017

I'm not sure - I kinda doubt it. MAYBE with a fiberglass hood, I don't have the setup on my truck anymore but I could get a measurement from the fuel rail to the top of the intake as its just sitting on an engine stand in the garage.

73azbronco · Nov 11, 2017

Are you using all the original EGR stuff as well?

lonesouth · Nov 11, 2017

no egr. I did notice the idle was not smooth with the IAC unplugged. It would surge, almost die, then recover. Saw that when attempting to set base idle.

lonesouth · Nov 13, 2017

Advancing the distributor too much causes it to die when put into gear. Is that normal? Didn't notice any hard starting at the same timing.

DirtDonk · Nov 13, 2017

How did you end up plumbing in the PCV valve?

Which ECM are you running? Mass-air it looks to be, so did you also plumb in your BAP sensor? I could not see one in any of your pics, so wanted to make sure.
And double check that you were not using a MAP sensor connected to vacuum instead.

They look identical except for the little plastic guard thingy on the end of the tube. You can use either sensor with either computer (the sensor is the same internally) but when you run the Mass-Air Ford setups you do NOT connect vacuum to it.

Paul

lonesouth · Nov 13, 2017

No MAP/BAP in the 93 t-bird.

PCV is going from the front driver's side valve cover to just behind MAF. Hose on oil filler neck going to the intake. Pretty sure.

DirtDonk · Nov 13, 2017

There was a MAP/BAP on every Ford 302/351 from '86 to '95 as far as I know.
Well, since I'm not knowing it all (at least not today!) I could be wrong on that. But I'm pretty sure your Ford factory EFI of any description needs to know the air pressure to make it work correctly.
Whether that's vacuum load, or barometric air pressure for altitude compensation, it needs something to tell it what's going on.

Were there no extra empty electrical plugs in the harness then?
STrange

Paul

DirtDonk · Nov 13, 2017

lonesouth said:
PCV is going from the front driver's side valve cover to just behind MAF. Hose on oil filler neck going to the intake. Pretty sure.

Better double check, because this could be your problem.
The VALVE goes to direct vacuum on the intake manifold. The nipple on the filler neck is what gets a hose running to the air intake tube between the MAF and TB

Paul

lonesouth · Nov 13, 2017

I checked and I have the valve in the filler neck going to the intake manifold, and an elbow out of the valve cover between the MAF and TB.

I'm just going to live with it. It doesn't give me any drive-ability issues, just a little higher idle than I expect. I also verified that the IAC is in the correct position.

lonesouth · Nov 19, 2017

this is just weird.

I cleaned off the balancer and I think what I've found is that with the way it is currently stabbed, I max out around 11* BTC. When I advance it that far, the idle suffers and it stalls when put into gear. Backing down to around 8, I think, solves the idle issues.

Also, I sprayed carb cleaner all over the intake, brake booster, PCV lines, everywhere. I can't find a leak.

73azbronco · Nov 19, 2017

Reading all the pages again, you said you had issues stabbing and setting base timing and wiring of plugs.

I know a 351 will run pretty well if two wires are on the wrong cylinders. Are you sure all 8 cylinders are getting spark, how do the plugs look, what is the compression on each cylinder?

You also said engine was a reman, are you sure the balancer is reading TDC at true TDC?

lonesouth · Nov 19, 2017

73azbronco said:
I know a 351 will run pretty well if two wires are on the wrong cylinders. Are you sure all 8 cylinders are getting spark, how do the plugs look, what is the compression on each cylinder?

pulling the plugs is next, will post pics. It did pass the KOEO ballance test, so I assume that all cylinders are firing correctly. I've not run a compression test, but I will.

73azbronco said:
You also said engine was a reman, are you sure the balancer is reading TDC at true TDC?

Not at all. I'm thinking of getting the local machine show to rebalance a new damper just so I can read the darn thing. That or timing tape.

73azbronco · Nov 20, 2017

I think you need to set number one cylinder at TDC and check the timing mark.

Casey835 · Nov 28, 2021

Did this problem get solved? It's very similar to what I'm experiencing.

lonesouth · Nov 29, 2021

No, I never did chase it down. I just live with it. Since it runs, this hasn't been much of a priority.

Casey835 · Nov 29, 2021

Yeah whatever it is for me it's very minor(I think anyways). Trying to do what I can before I bug Guerry.
Thanks for your reply!

351w EFI install

roundhouse

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KyleQ

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lonesouth

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