Jake Good's Bronco Rebuild

SpareParts · Nov 17, 2011

INPHOBIC said:
Man it has been too long. I am ready to get back on the trail again! I am shooting for Moab for the Bronco Safari. We'll see if it all works out!
Jake

If all goes as planned, I'll be out there too!

David

INPHOBIC · Nov 17, 2011

Nice! Guess thats even more motivation for me to get on the ball!

INPHOBIC · Nov 17, 2011

Unfortunately my welds are not pretty as I'd like but I am not worried about them failing. I am trying a new technique for me which is the "e" motion with the puddle.

Here is the middle portion going together.

INPHOBIC · Nov 18, 2011

I wanted to build the crossmember out of Cold Rolled 3/16" but I couldn't get the sizes I needed to build it from. So I went with 1/4" Hot rolled plate.

Some speed holes would really dress it up, but here in the midwest mud fills all that stuff so it will stay solid. Here is the finished crossmember.

okorangebrnco · Nov 18, 2011

Jealousy is really starting to set in........ Looks great Jake!

surfer-b · Nov 18, 2011

Thats looking real good, I'm looking forward to the finished product.

I am trying a new technique for me which is the "e" motion with the puddle.

Thats the technique I use when I'm using my mig and sometimes with the stick, its works good once you get the feel for it, or I should say once you see how it works the puddle. Try this next time maybe it will help a little, think small cursive "e's". I know when I first started this technique I was overlapping too much in the puddle . Once I started lapping only a little it worked much better and really put out a nice clean looking weld with good penetration, but I tend to weld a little slow compared to some guys I know.

INPHOBIC · Nov 18, 2011

yeah it's definately an improvement from working the gun side to side. I am really wanting to improve the welds on my roll cage where you see them all the time. Tubing is so hard to make a complete weld all the way around look good for me.

INPHOBIC · Nov 22, 2011

This is what I decided on for calc numbers. It should be quite an improvement from what I had previously.

Frame-side upper links mounts. I pretty much stole this idea from the synergy mounts that poly performance sells. Thiers is designed to mount lower links so I just flipped it to mount on top of the frame instead. I need to make the weldwashers for the tabs and they will be ready to weld in as well.

sprdv1 · Nov 22, 2011

Nice Jake!!! Maybe I need to move closer to You!

INPHOBIC · Nov 22, 2011

Do you think you could handle living in the Dotte?

Jake

stupidboy · Nov 22, 2011

It would be great if someone could show me how to use that linkage calculator.

INPHOBIC · Nov 22, 2011

I can help you out no problem! Do you understand how to enter in the link points into the spread sheet?
Jake

stupidboy · Nov 27, 2011

I can't realize what any of that is.?:?

fdezone · Nov 27, 2011

stupidboy said:
I can't realize what any of that is.?:?

If you have Microsoft Excel, you can download the zip file from the link below.

http://mysite.verizon.net/triaged/files/4BarLinkV3.0.zip

The light blue cells are the ones where you enter your data. Sometimes highlighting the cell will provide a brief description.

Basically, you're entering your vehicle specifics and link info and the spreadsheet will "predict" the resulting anti-squat numbers, etc. The numbers equate to how long your upper and lower links should be and how much separation your uppers and lowers should have at both the axle and frame ends. There's a science to it all and math was never my strong suit. If you don't get it close, your rear end can end up either jacking up or squatting on acceleration. You also need to control how the pinion reacts when the suspension cycles so the driveshaft doesn't bind and then there's keeping the axle centered under your rig, etc. FWIW, flexy suspensions at slow speeds on the trail don't necessarily equate to smooth cruising on the street. There's a lot more to it, and I'm no expert, but you get the gist.

Jake and other more experienced builders can chime in with more specifics. I researched it a while ago but didn't have the balls to go through with it! My 1-tons are still sitting in my shed! :-[

INPHOBIC · Nov 28, 2011

If you download the spread sheet it has some instructions that come with it.
You will need to get your vehicle specs filled in. That is the block of info to the left. Then the hard part comes in with trying to decide where to put your control arms and what type of suspension design you want to run. Once you get to that point let me know!
Jake

stupidboy · Nov 28, 2011

Well I don't have micro excel so I can't download it. I have windows vista.

INPHOBIC · Nov 28, 2011

That will make it difficult then! I'd either find a copy of excel or find a buddy with a copy of excel if you would like to lern to use the tool. However it's not the be all end all of suspension design. The best advice I have for building a linked suspension is to find someones rig that works the way you want yours to and copy it! Honestly it'll take building several linked suspensions to really see how the numbers you get from the calculator relate to real world.

INPHOBIC · Nov 28, 2011

Here are a couple pictures of the modified and finished mounts for the frame side of the wishbone. I didn't have enough room in the mount for full droop so I had to lower the tabs on the backside for the wishbone.

Also a picture of the wishbone as well. I had to put a small bend in the tubes to clear the pinion support part of the 3rd member.

The lower link tabs are finished as well.

[/quote]

fdezone · Nov 28, 2011

NICE! You're moving right along! Did I read somewhere that you were going with ORIs? Additionally, why did you opt to go the wishbone route vice 4-link? Any specific reason or just personal preference? I'm just curious.

Build looks great!

INPHOBIC · Nov 28, 2011

Yeah I am running 12" ORI's on the back and hope to get a set for the front as well.

Originally I was running the lower links on the outside of the frame and there isn't enough room in between the frame rails to triangulate the uppers enough to make me comfortable. Now with the lowers triangulated I don't really see an issue with seperate uppers. The wishbone is a little tougher to build than just a couple more straight links but I had ran it for years so I was comfortable with it's performance.

Jake

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