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Yes, I should have checked first. I just got all excited watching it.

Just ran across this today and thought it was cool. Look at this guys collection of 4-wheel drives. Forgive me if this has already been posted.

So, if I wanted to naturally “park” the auxiliary tank I could just use opposite pole. Correct?

I have purchased a new electric fuel valve to replace the stock valve located under driver seat. My question is: On the back of the fuel selector switch on the dash there are 6 connection points. Top 3 are tank connections with the middle going to the gauge. Bottom connection points from what I...

I guess that I am just caught up with getting to my cluster so much. I just ordered an electric fuel valve. So, I will be back in there again when that comes in. Also. I need a switched power source from my fuse panel and as I mentioned my AM radio quit working. I love my A/C but it certainly...

I just found this post as well from 2018. See DirkDonk post #9. https://classicbroncos.com/forums/threads/windshield-to-cowl-mounting-panel-replacement.286860/

https://classicbroncos.com/forums/threads/cowl-panel-replacement.90954/ Post #18.

So, I was searching around for a good idea to remove my Air Vent on the driver side and cover the hole since I have A/C and don't use it. I have been removing it to work on my cluster. I ran across an old post from "behemoth" titled "Cowl panel replacement" dated 10/27/2006. Looking at post #8 I...

I just want to replace my old mechanical valve under the drivers seat with the Wild Horses electric tank selector valve. No electric pumps, sticking with the mechanical fuel pump on the engine.

Yes, I did think about doing just that. Thank you.

I am thinking about replacing my manual fuel valve with an electric fuel valve. My question is, that looking at the PDF installation sheet on Wild Horse's it appears to me that when connected, the dash mounted selector switch will draw from the opposite tank than the way the selector switch is...

As I stated in my first post everything is running well. But, if there is an obvious and easy fix then I will fix it. Otherwise, I am going to drive it until something breaks.

Also, I ran a new #2 cable from the battery to the starter solenoid. Also new #2 cable from my battery to a distribution block. From my distribution block I ran all my positive cables that need to run directly to positive terminal. I feel like RPM has something to do with my problem which leads...

Thanks for the reply. I am located in Fl. The Bronco came from Utah originally. This is what I have done up to this point while chasing electric ghosts: New regulator with a new battery that has top and side posts. Ran a new #2 ground cable from battery to engine block. Also new #2 ground cable...

Took my ‘76 Bronco on a 200 mile journey last weekend and everything ran so good it was scary. However, I noticed that when I stopped at a traffic light with a quarter of a tank of fuel, my ammeter was bouncing. More like flickering up and down and my fuel gauge would drop below E. Then when I...

Did this idea die or are we going to try and do something?

Yes, I actually just greased those about a month ago. Also, from an earlier question. I have had this Bronco for 4 years. It originated from Utah and bought it from a guy in Texas. Rust free for the most part.

Added about 6 oz. Of friction modifier and then I drove around making 4 figure 8’s. Wow, what a difference. It is smooth as silk now. Thank you guys very much.

I agree that I have never heard the term "locker" used with limited slip. I am going to add some friction modifier tonight and see if that helps before I crack it open.

I don't think it is that bad. I had a 79 Bronco in my younger days and the gears came apart inside to the point that when I opened it up teeth and chunks just rolled out. This is more of just a vibration more than anything.