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Congratulations on the purchase. Try the link. Find your year at the bottom of the page. http://www.broncohio.com/tech/ebvins.html

That's a high price for that much rust as others have said. That said, from the pictures, I believe my starting point was worse from a rusty floorboard perspective. Mine required A LOT: a Dynacorn one piece floor, new rear bed floor, door pillars, multiple cowl pieces, inner fenders etc...

Plasti-dip is good stuff. I think if you clean the parts good beforehand it should last a lifetime inside your lift gate. The first time I tried it, I did two dips with the lift rod ends, but it was too thick and I had to cut it off and start over. One dip will probably make it thick enough...

Similar to the heat shrink, I used plasti-dip on the rods and also on the springs and internals…it made a big difference. Regarding the tailgate cables…they are tricky. I have tried a couple of options and found the James Duff to be the best.

Found it. Loose crimp between the Grey fusible link and the red wire. Thanks for the replies and thanks B RON CO for coming over today and helping me troubleshoot.

Hi Paul, thanks. It’s been running along just fine til now. Today, I tried to fire it up and get it in the driveway so I could check the voltage while idling. Turning the key, the starter motor did its thing for half a second then nothing. No lights, no clock on the rally pac. Checked...

But it would be a big hit at the local cruise-in.

I think Delconick has OEM

James and EPB72 - thanks for your replies. There's a little grommet or piece of rubber lodged behind the alt regulator harness plug. It looks to be just along for the ride but the plug is on tight.

Thanks. This makes sense. Is the occasional voltage drop a possible symptom of a failing 3G alternator or associated regulator? I have gone the overkill route with grounds and they all seem clean and tight, alt belt is tight, Aside from headlights as needed, I am running no accessories aside...

Hey Papy, is this on your older Bronco - I think 68 or 69? If so, an old Emergency Flasher switch that still seems fully operational can be the culprit for TS malfunctions. Otherwise, chafed wire or loose connections seem likely.

I needed an entire one-piece platform to replace everything. I got the Dynacorn from CJP. My body man said the fit was excellent and I can say that all of the details and bracketry are very nice just like the original.

I’ve got 3500 miles on my build and it’s been very smooth sailing. However, I have had this situation happen now four times on my last ten trips or so, with it happening twice on my last trip. The conditions when it happens are the same in that each time, I was starting to roll after being...

Paul/Dirt Donk gives perfect guidance on the powder coating. It is worth the up front effort in getting the frame right and powder coating IMO. Front disk brakes seem more than enough modernization for most, without all the complications that rear disks add. A 1” body lift is also a good...

Looks good. Nice job on the dash. You will have no regrets about adding the disc brakes and the tintable raptorliner.

Thanks- 3300 miles of smiles so far!

Posting some pictures in “hot summer mode”…canvas top on and window frames out…I plan on removing the soft top and have open air for a while in the fall.

Wimbledon White is also the correct color for the grill, painted bumpers and wheels for 1968.

Nice score Papy!!

I used the SEM light parchment vinyl color and the SEM soap and prep products. Looks great and is holding up well.