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These look great! Are you willing to mail to Canada? If so I'll take 2 (or 3 if available), assuming you accept paypal. Please PM me for details. Thanks!

I followed the lead of a few members here and built a wooden body cart that can be rotated 90 deg to access the underside. It works great.

Check out post 10 in this thread. Both cowl braces form together and sit on top of the A pillar, capping off the end of the cowl, directly below the end of the windshield hinge . The larger piece faces into the cab. The rectangular hole in that piece is a fastening point for the dash...

Have a look in the classifieds to get an idea of price. I've seen $200-350 for a complete set up. There were two recent carrier wanted ads in there as well.

Sent you a PM

I was thinking of trying something like Flex Seal or Plasti Dip. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BvwTJLHPCU0

Thanks for your input. I'm curious. Can you explain why you believe that full advance at 2500 rpm doesn't work for trucks? Do you have a source? The 2500 rpm target seems to be the standard in a number of articles I've read, regardless of vehicle.

Hey Snoddas, and idea what springs you're running in the distributor?

I just finished spending literally dozens of hours aligning my doors. It was by far the most challenging part of my restoration project. For me the key control point to begin with is establishing the correct height for the front, top corner of the door, forward of the door window frame. It's...

I second the do it now advice. If you clean it up I'm confident you will find it to be full of pinholes or very thin in spots. If you try to weld them up you'll be chasing blow out after blow out. That was my experience anyway.

What’s the rubber-like checker plate material you used on the door sill? Would you recommend it?

The displacement of the 289/302 is dependent on the crank, as both 289 and 302 blocks have a stock 4" bore. As you said, a 289 crank is stamped 1M, while a 302 crank is stamped 2M. My original to the truck, 68 engine is a C8AE casting. 68 was the changeover year to a 302. This block has a 302...

The original nasty ones I cut from my truck are 39 1/4. The length of my repros was the same. BUT they were 3/16 too deep! The sill portion should be about 3 1/2 but my repros were 3 11/16. They stuck out way too far so I had to section the sill portion and take the extra width out.

I've got a brand new unused one for a T shift AX15.

Here are the cowl brace photos.

Check out this thread that shows how to recreate the floating nut plate the factory used. https://classicbroncos.com/forums/showthread.php?t=304058 The windshield frame looks pretty rough in that section. Looks like it needs some exploratory surgery!

I have the same question. I've got a 68 with vacuum wipers, which I want to keep because they're quirky. I'm considering putting the explorer front dress on my 289, which is not compatible with my vacuum fuel pump. I'm wondering if anyone has experience with an electric vacuum pump, like this...

I used my engine hoist to move the tub from the frame to a body cart, then back to the frame. The tub was braced in the door openings, behind the front seat area and across the tailgate opening. I ran lift straps to the outermost seatbelt mounts and below dash body mounts. I positioned the...

Nope. Definitely passenger side.

What's the purpose of this metal bracket that mounts to the right rear frame rail and crossmember, beside the fuel tank? Is it simply a heat shield? I've stripped a few Bronco carcasses and only ever came across this one, which was on the 68 I'm restoring.