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Finally got some time to check in on this. I grounded the wire, turned the key on, and the gauge did a full sweep to full. I'm thinking that I may of "over tefloned" the fitting creating a bad ground. I've cleaned things up and will keep an eye on things.

Thanks for all the feedback. I definitely have been using Teflon tape on the threads so I'll remove it and see if that helps in addition to inspecting the wiring.

All the other gauges work fine when this happens and I get no engine noise. I almost immediately swap in the mechanical gauge to confirm I have pressure when this happens and I do.

Sorry, I forgot to mention I have replaced the sending unit after this happened a couple of times. This is why I was thinking it might be a grounding issue, but I don't understand how the system works. Does it rely on a ground path through the engine block?

This has happened about 4-5 times over the past year, I'll start the bronco and get 0 oil pressure on my stock gauge. For obvious reasons the first time I freaked out, thinking I had a major problems so I bought a mechanical gauge, installed it and had 50psi. After confirming this, I reinstalled...

Both my passenger and driver mirror will not hold their position, any good tricks to keep them in a fixed position once set? If not, I was just going to replace them, but then I'm not sure if I should go with the satin finish or chrome . The bronco looks ok, but is FAR from show quality, will...

I just confirmed I have 14.5v at the studs on the gauge and it does read 12v when looking at it straight on. It just appears to be a poor quality gauge, thanks for the feedback though.

I just installed a voltage gauge in place of my old amp gauge (new alternator) and it only reads 12 volts, although with a meter I'm getting 14.5v to the ignition post I connected it to. Is this normal for these gauges to read low?

Peacock Blue

My bronco stops ok, but not great with drums all around. Question is how, much improvement will I get by just adding a power brake booster? I know front discs would be best, but it's not in the cards right now.

I’m installing power steering, just curious the best way to position the hoses. Any pics are appreciated. Thanks

Pretty certain the WH 2.5" lift I got came with 4degree c bushings, sounds like I need the 7 degrees. I want power steering anyway, but appreciate the suggestion, and will still plan to update to a 7 degree in hopes of making it comfortable at least to drive 55-60mph. I don't double everyone...

I didn’t recenter the front end. The camber was "corrected" some after the second visit back to the shop. I had 1" of lean, so they had to completely dissemble/reassemble the front end which helped with the camber concern and this report is after that. It does drive straight, but out of no where...

I had to bring my bronco back to the shop to fix the dreaded "bronco lean", this time I asked for the alignment print out. Just thought I'd share, and ask if I should be concerned about the Caster being below the target? From what I read I thought the new C-bushings should correct this on a 2.5"...

Yes, my '68 has the removable window frame, vent window and all. Its 4 or 5 bolts and it is out in a couple of minutes. After '68 they started welding them as one.

I just replaced my sending unit and must of got something in the lines because it's starving for fuel after a few miles test drive. I cleaned things out once, it ran good for a bit, then I could hear the pump start to "work" hard again. Figure I should just replace the cartridges, anyone have...

I do have the yellow wire still on the regulator, but am not sure about the capacitors. I don't think so unless they are located under the dash. I blew a hole in my radiator Sunday, but I plan to try what you suggested once I get things put back together.

Might be a silly question, but if that much camber is "expected", won't my tires wear unevenly? The shop did do an alignment after the lift install and it does drive straight.

I sprung a leak in my original radiator and obviously need to replace it. Question is, all the replacements I've seen have the fill cap on the radiator but my setup has the factory surge tank which has the fill cap. Can I use a new radiator that has a cap and keep my surge tank also? Sorta of a...