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These are mine. I bought from a member here a few months ago. The bolt holes a worn to the point where they will not run true, but are good enough to use as spares, hence the low price. The auction numbers are as follows: 361006332918 and 361006335177. If you want good slots for spare tires...

Then do yourself a favor while out in the pasture: Do a few sudden braking maneuvers out there along with some sharp turns just to find out what it is everyone's warning you about here, before getting out on public roads with that trailer. You're going to find that you really don't want to do...

Just take the explorer adapter off and screw on an FL-1A filter. The threaded part in the block should be the correct one to fit the FL-1A. If not try an FL-820 filter (same as the FL-1A but metric threads)

Keep trying ebay. I've seen quite a few single 8.5's lately. Here's the auction number for one : 390888417005 Do searches using these: vintage mags, aluminum slots, slotted wheels, gasser wheels, rat rod wheels. Other words will come up when you use these words too

Those are the wheels I listed on ebay. The center holes are too small for a Bronco front axle but do fit the rear.

Might also try readjusting the shifter rods too. 1st and reverse are together on a 3 speed (I was thinking you had a 4 speed) so the linkage rod may need further adjustment.

The blocker rings (syncronizers) are worn on 1st. Time to rebuild it. Good thing is the rebuild kits are cheap and these transmissions are easy to rebuild. All you need is a good pair of snap ring pliers and a fishing magnet (to fish the shifter detentsn out of their holes) You can get a rebuild...

I have a Granada/F150 Hurst that needs a home. pm me. I have the shifter and mounting plate, the shift rods however ? I have a box full of em, but not sure which are which. Lets make a deal.

If it ain't broke don't fix it. As for a carbed engine being less reliable than EFI, that's hogwash. Put an EFI type cam in it, run that with a hot electonic ignition and a smallish sized carb and it'll be dead nuts reliable for years with none of the "constant" adjusting of the carb. Once a...

The one thing that does wear in a roller motor are the rocker ends of the pushrods. The roller rods do not get rotated in service like a flat tappet cam rod does and thus the rocker end wears to a somewhat wedge shape over time. The lifters, cam and roller rockers (the Cobra 1.7's) seem to last...

You're likely just noticing the detonation now with the warmer weather, that's pretty common. Back off the timing a tad and see if it goes away before doing anything else.

The Explorer cam has .030 less lift on the intake side. Exhaust lobes are the same. The Stang cam has more duration, how much more depends on where you get the specs from. The Explorer cam advertsed duration is 256/266 (int/exh) The HO cam is one of the following: 276/266 or 276/276. The LSA's...

"AE" in the prefix denotes a full size Ford car. If it were a truck part, there would be a "TE" here. "A" designates a full size car, "T" designates a truck part. The "E" tells you this is an Engineering number. If it were a part number there would be a "Z" in this position in the prefix.

Yea, I can see why with their fragile cranks (which probably found their way into a few 302's) and tiny port and valved heads.

A 4" stroke 302 block based crank would be worth it's weight in gold, if it weren't for the fact that the 255 cranks were prone to breaking in half. I got the specs from Ford's Mustang 5.0 reference manual. I've only seen the head off one, they had those "vagina" shaped intake ports;D

It was the same stroke as a 302, just a smaller bore. 3.68 bore x 3.00 stroke

I just did a GT40 head swap on the roller 351 in my 96 E150 van with the addition of a set of 1.7 rockers and shortys and a new 3" exhaust, all this did move the power a couple hundred rpms up the band, judging by how it sounds and drives afterwards. My next project is to build a stroker short...

There's an easy rule of thumb to remember when picking parts: bigger cams, intakes and bigger heads tend to move the HP and torque farther up the rpm band which in a 4x4 is usually something you do not want. increasing the displacement (stroke) tends to negate this. You can mitigate this in...