I'm scared to try my rebuilt engine

[Nowik35]

Big update, finally got to priming the engine, and took the spark plugs and cranked the engine today. Everything turned smoothly, except started solenoid is shot. When I turned off the key after about 45s the engine kept on cranking, I had to pull the negative from the battery to stop the engine from cranking. Just ordered another solenoid but over all happy so far.

 

[nvrstuk]

Congrats on the build?

45sec continously cranking?

If the solenoid was a typical AutoZone quality one then the amperage passing thru the cheap quality contacts probably caused them to stick together. 45 sec continously is a long time.

Hope she fires up and runs great!

 

[admin]

@Nowik35 did you actually run the engine yet or just crank it with the starter for a bit? If you haven't run it yet, below is a checklist I made for the 289-2V I just rebuilt and started for the first time last week. Agreed that it was stressful, but turned out well for me after a couple of minor setbacks.

https://classicbroncos.com/forums/threads/checklist-for-initial-start-of-a-rebuilt-engine.323289/

Hope that helps and good luck!

When you primed the engine did you have a pressure gauge hooked up and did you have the valve cover off? I pulled one of my valve covers just so I could triple check that oil was getting up to the top of each rocker arm.

 

[ba123]

You're positive you wired it correctly right? That could be the problem as well.

 

[nvrstuk]

I think he said "finally got to priming the engine, and took the spark plugs and cranked the engine today" then after 45 sec he had to remove the negative terminal.... etc

 

[Nowik35]

Ya something is going on. I'm on solenoid number 3 and still now working as it should. I'm pretty sure everything is wired correctly. I think the sin is I keep buying cheapo Amazon parts....smh. First one started magically on me and I terminal died, second one I terminal never worked, and this third solenoid worked once and never worked again. Of to AutoZone I go.

 

[ba123]

Not sure it's Amazon….i just got a crap tps sensor from Rockauto.

 

[nvrstuk]

Problem is every store has the cheap/worthless part line. Motorcraft or nothing- almost. Can't use that worthless stuff. Maybe it's wiring but there is soooo much worthless crud out there and in the box it's undistinguishable from the higher quality stuff. Napa's Echlin line used to be decent, Dorman used to be decent (not anymore), Motorcrap is still "pretty" decent but not many choices left...

My last Motorcraft wtrpump had a "Made in China" sticker on the back. So no guarantees.

 

[bmbm]

That is nice workmanship! Lots of good tips here for you and also good resources on fordsix.com.

 

[Nowik35]

So I tried starting it today and it fired up!!! But only staid on about 20-30 sec and it died. Tried that a few times, then battery gave out. Hooked up jump wires from my truck and tried again. Started right up again without the choke, staid on for a little bit and died before I could go over to the carb to mess with the screws. It did sound high on rpms but I wouldn't know bc I don't have a tac. I tried again this time my started wouldn't even turn, just buzzed very load? Did I kill the starter?
Going to charge the battery over night and try again in a couple days. ALMOST THERE! for the few seconds it was on it sounded nice

 

[admin]

If it was the solenoid buzzing (bolted to the fender near the battery) then it's probably that the battery wasn't providing enough juice. Or the solenoid is bad. Or wire connections are corroded or loose. I would check all those things before thinking it's the starter.

Did it really run for 20-30 seconds or more like 5? My 289 at first only ran for about 5 seconds because my timing was so far off. Once I advanced the timing about 10 deg by twisting the distributor, the engine ran.

If it really runs for 20-30 seconds or longer I would check that you're getting fuel to the carb. Sounds like the engine could be using all the fuel in the carb bowl, then running out and dying. (ie. the fuel pump isn't filling the carb bowl fast enough.)

 

[Nowik35]

I'll try that, for a Ford 170 to advance the timing I should turn the distributor housing counter clockwise correct?

 

[jamesroney]

I'll try that, for a Ford 170 to advance the timing I should turn the distributor housing counter clockwise correct?

Yes. The distributor shaft in a 170 turns clockwise from the top. To advance the timing, rotate the housing counter clockwise.

 

[Nowik35]

Admin you're a genius! It was the timing, I moved the distributor back a bit and the engine fired right up!!!!! Runs beautifully!!! Still got to do some adjustments but HUGE milestone today!!

 

[BronCowie]

Admin you're a genius! It was the timing, I moved the distributor back a bit and the engine fired right up!!!!! Runs beautifully!!! Still got to do some adjustments but HUGE milestone today!!

Happy for ya! What a great feelin' right?

 

[Speedrdr]

I can certainly understand the relief, jubilation, relaxation from all the hard work…and whatever else kind of excitement applies.

Ra

 

[Bajabrewer]

Love It! Glad to see you got it running.

 

[Broncobowsher]

Quick tip on which way to turn a distributor to advance it. As long as there is a vacuum advance, it pulls in more advance. Look at where the vacuum can is at and pull on it the same direction. You are pulling in advance overall, the same direction the vacuum pulls. Doesn't matter the make, or the engine family.

When you have an engine that doesn't have a vacuum advance, it gets harder. Either guess, or bump the engine over with the cap off to see which way it goes.