Recent content by Powerbyford

Cleveland top hose to radiator comes straight out of top of front of block. Intake manifolds are DRY. No antifreeze passages in intake manifold.

I had an original BW T-89 three speed with the OD behind it in my old Studebaker truck that I used to replace the straight four speed. There is an electric governor to keep it out of OD below set speeds. When not in OD there is no engine braking as the OD is a planetary gearset with overrunning...

Carb probably has automatic choke, no manual cable. Remove the air cleaner and pop the throttle open. Choke plate should snap closed on a cold motor only. Left position on key is to power accessories without power to ignition. Power to ignition with motor not running will kill the points if you...

Probably not the timing sprocket and chain out of position if you get almost a complete revolution. It would stop 4 times per revolution on a V-8, or every 1/4 turn on a new valve.

Pull the valve covers when you rotate it and look for a valve that isn’t working, i.e rocker arm gets real loose and valve stays down. Sounds like possibly a valve may have rusted stuck open. Would show up when engine stops turning.

I’ve straightened a lot tougher bumper from my 49 Studebaker 1 ton pickup with a Big hammer and well placed wood blocks on a on concrete floor. They can be straightened regardless of what the body shop says.

I always go to the axles and never have problems with loosening. Agree on using welded anchors on the trailer only. Absolutely must have trailer and tow vehicle tires up to recommended pressures. More problems from low tires than anything else in my history.

The body lift will have no impact on the C bushings, only suspension lift matters. Lots of opinions on how much angle you want to see, but need to know suspension lift to follow their recommendations.

Possibly the starter engaged with engine running? Defective starter relay. What did it sound like?

Also look very close to my American Racing Baja 172’s. If they are AR wheels they will be identified on the back side.

Most likely the problem is the rear pump hole and the rear spacer rusted to the stud. The rear pump hole acts threaded and so does the spacer, so backing out the stud is like tightening the two nuts together. I’ve had success getting vice grips on the spacer to hold it stationary and prevent the...

What he said, carbide bits. Masonry bits have a carbide tip if you didn’t know that. They do pretty well with hardened steel.

No, you are right about being on the bottom. Easy check is to CAREFULLY loosen but not remove the drain plug after it sits a few days. Antifreeze or water will settle to the bottom and come out around the threads when the plug is getting loose. Green means antifreeze, clear means condensation.

Is your fuel tank vented correctly? Next time it dies get out quickly and pop the gas cap to see if you are pulling a vacuum on the tank, starving you of fuel. Not real common but it matches the symptoms.

For what it’s worth I put in a crate 5.0 just to get the roller cam and the builder still called for ZDDP additive to be used for break in. About the only thing that should need that might be the cam/distributor gear set. Make sure you have the right gear on the distributor for a roller cam.