Recent content by byson1

I'd certainly remove the pellets. If it were mine, I'd also see how it rides without even balancing the tires. I've driven in numerous vehicles with unbalanced large tires (35" and Up) and rarely felt any serious vibrations. It can be difficult to truly balance a large tire. However, because...

I just put the transmission in neutral and shift. If there's a little drag on the clutch plate you may want to push the clutch in to keep the TC gears from grinding some but that's about it. The vehicle does need to be stopped. You really can't screw it up.

Quote..."I plan to install a Holley Sniper system in the future (when I can afford it) and my hopes are that it will get a little better gas mileage and perform better at altitude. I was also thinking that I might switch to a 32" tire. Any thoughts?????" Best to decide your main objective. Any...

I've go the same size wheels and tires on my Bronco in case anyone wants to know what they look like.

That's exactly what I was thinking about doing rjrobin2002. My safety concern was it's location to the gas tank.

Has anyone ever had a 9" axle housing with a leak? After replacing too many axle shaft seals, (the first one was leaking!) I've finally found the source of the oil to be a very small pin hole leak where the axle housing was welded to the flange. This is on the driver side.

I can't help on the size but you can easily see if the pump is working (or if there is a restriction) by looking down the carb and manually turning the accelerator rod. Make sure the engine is not running. There should be two equal streams of fuel flowing.

If it is a T/O bearing it will just get worse and eventually seize up. There's a lot of room under these old Bronco's and they're not too difficult to work on. Go to harbor freight, buy an inexpensive tranny jack and change the clutch and all out yourself...or get a friend to help.

Probably the throw out bearing for the clutch. When you push the clutch pedal down you're actually putting pressure on the throw out bearing and using it-causing the noise. When the clutch is engaged the throw out bearing is not used and there is no pressure on it. There could actually be...

I would purchase and 1995 F150 Electrical and Vacuum Trouble Shooting Manual (factory manual). When I put a 1993 EFI Tbird 5.0 in my 68 Bronco I used the Tbird wiring harness instead of going for an aftermarket kit. I used that factory manual to help adapt the wiring and it has worked fine for...

I "vented" the cap on my 68 by drilling a hole as previously mentioned.

It's fine to run it without the carb spacer for your purposes.

I wouldn't deal with the idle stop solenoid at this point. It was designed to allow the butterfly valves in the carb to fully close when the engine is shut off (reduce emissions and dieseling). Just adjust the idle using the other screw. Sounds like the biggest issue is the carb plate as that...

No you should have 2 equal streams of fuel going into each side. You either have a clogged fuel passage way (in the carb) and or leaking accelerator pump. These old carbs are pretty easy to rebuild, or you could buy a used one off here or a remanufactured one. Either way, a rebuild or another...

Yes, even as crappy as they can often be, I would recommend a Chiltons or Haynes manual as it gives basic info that can be helpful. If I were working on this the first thing I'd do (with the engine OFF) is look into the carb, twist the throttle arm and see if any fuel is being shot into the...