• Welcome to ClassicBroncos! - You are currently viewing the forums as a GUEST. To take advantage of all the site features, please take a moment to register. It's fast, simple and absolutely free. So please join our community today!
    If you have problems registering or can't log into your account, please contact Admin.

New owner from Germany

OP
OP
T

tody

Full Member
Joined
Mar 22, 2017
Messages
207
Bronco is back from the muffler shop. Exhaust is tucked in neatly...
Trailered it there, drove it back.
NV3550 is shifting fine. I was a little anxious, as it was a used unit.
B&M shifter is indeed a VERY short throw. Will need to bend the handle a little. Doesn't hit the dash, but it is a far reach.

The good: With the transmission tunnel cover out of the way, the seat can be fully moved forward. And my wife can finally reach the pedals and drive the bronco :D

The bad: Driver side radius arm mount is bent, and the welds on the inner side of the frame is cracked. Did not notice this before. That'll need to be addressed some time...
 
OP
OP
T

tody

Full Member
Joined
Mar 22, 2017
Messages
207
Here's the pics from the new exhaust routing:

IMG_4290.jpeg

IMG_4291.jpeg

IMG_4289.jpeg
 
OP
OP
T

tody

Full Member
Joined
Mar 22, 2017
Messages
207
And I dug through my pictures. Found one where you can see the mangled radius arm bracket. Welds are broken...

IMG_4204.jpeg


Wildhorses seem to make decent ones close to original. Would be cool to see these listed on eBay so I can get them through the international shipping program.
 
OP
OP
T

tody

Full Member
Joined
Mar 22, 2017
Messages
207
I ordered some parts at WH, namely the Radius Arm brackets, and 1.5" lift springs for the front. They're stuck with UPS - parcels are already here in Cologne, but don't advance. They get scanned every night but don't move...

So I tackled some side projects:

The front lift springs are accompanied by 1" lift blocks in the rear. Mainly to clear the 31" tires. With the springs settled a little, they were pretty close to the fenders.
IMG_4316.jpeg

IMG_4317.jpeg


Also, I got a new Warn Winch Cable set. 100ft of steel cable with a new hook.
Also a new fairlead, but the current one is not only bolted, but also welded on. Will replace that later. Just put in the new cable today:
IMG_4315.jpeg


On a side note:
The Mustang is running like a champ, better than ever before. The problems with the carb and timing I posted about before turned out to be a super stretched timing chain. Only found out about that by accident, when replacing the front crank seal...
 
OP
OP
T

tody

Full Member
Joined
Mar 22, 2017
Messages
207
Damn, my parts from WH are stuck with UPS for nearly a month now.
Weather was pretty cold the last two weeks, but today was sunny.
So off to the garage to get some work done.

Removed the old fairlead:
IMG_4340.jpeg


Cleaned up the bumper, painted the middle section and bolted on the new part:
IMG_4341.jpeg


I also dug into the drip rails. No structural rust, and mainly dirt trapped in there. Will give it a good clean tomorrow, and reseal it:
IMG_4342.jpeg

IMG_4343.jpeg
 

sprdv1

Contributor
REBEL
Joined
Mar 8, 2007
Messages
81,779
Damn, my parts from WH are stuck with UPS for nearly a month now.

I also dug into the drip rails. No structural rust, and mainly dirt trapped in there. Will give it a good clean tomorrow, and reseal it:

that's a big plus.. :)
 
OP
OP
T

tody

Full Member
Joined
Mar 22, 2017
Messages
207
well, that escalated quickly!

I 'just' wanted to change the oil in the winch. I'm also familiar that you use the term 'milkshake' for the emulsion of water and oil in the engine. But what I found was more like peanut butter. :eek:

IMG_4344.jpeg


20 minutes later it was nearly fully apart:

IMG_4345.jpeg


that stuff in there isn't even soluble with brake clean, so I just scraped most of it out. now that everything is apart, i'll try to find new bearings. the old ones do have part numbers on them, but there is one oil seal i need to measure.
let's see how I can source these parts over here...
 
Last edited:

DirtDonk

Contributor
Bronco Guru
Joined
Nov 3, 2003
Messages
47,747
Yuck. Apparently your Bronco spent some time in a river!
Well, at least it still had some properties of oil and appears to have kept some parts from rusting.

Just what you needed. Something else to kill the time with while waiting for parts.%)

Paul
 

sprdv1

Contributor
REBEL
Joined
Mar 8, 2007
Messages
81,779
Yikes... that ain't much fun to clean up

well, that escalated quickly!

I 'just' wanted to change the oil in the winch. I'm also familiar that you use the term 'milkshake' for the emulsion of water and oil in the engine. But what I found was more like peanut butter. :eek:

IMG_4344.jpeg


20 minutes later it was nearly fully apart:

IMG_4345.jpeg


that stuff in there isn't even soluble with brake clean, so I just scraped most of it out. now that everything is apart, i'll try to find new bearings. the old ones do have part numbers on them, but there is one oil seal i need to measure.
let's see how I can source these parts over here...
 
OP
OP
T

tody

Full Member
Joined
Mar 22, 2017
Messages
207
This winch side project took a little longer than expected. Managed to find new bearings and the seal. cut the housing gasket from bulk material.

While I had the winch off, I also removed the whole bumper assembly. Only held on by half the fasteners, the ones that held it on were too small. Now everything i back together, painted and fully mounted with 1/2" bolts.

Also, the winch is back on with new hardware:
IMG_4362.jpeg


Next will be either the drip rails or the radius arm brackets...
 
OP
OP
T

tody

Full Member
Joined
Mar 22, 2017
Messages
207
Radius arm brackets were next. And indeed, that surely was the source for my Bronco lean...

Pulled the front axle, that was quite a task with a two post lift. With a pair of jackstands, I was able to move everything around, and now the frame is resting on the arms, right before the brackets.

IMG_4364.jpeg


The radius arm bushings do not seem to be the culprit, both arms are touching the ground equally:
IMG_4363.jpeg


Here's the good mount on the passenger side:
IMG_4365.jpeg


And here the crooked one on the driver side, clearly pointing down:
IMG_4366.jpeg


Managed to free the bolts on that side, and used a grinder to remove the brackets. Frame cleaned up on this side:
IMG_4367.jpeg

IMG_4368.jpeg


Tomorrow i'll grind off the other side, and will try to weld in the new brackets!
 
OP
OP
T

tody

Full Member
Joined
Mar 22, 2017
Messages
207
New brackets are in.

Driver side:
IMG_4375.jpeg

IMG_4376.jpeg

IMG_4380.jpeg


Passenger side:
IMG_4377.jpeg

IMG_4378.jpeg

IMG_4379.jpeg


They're fully welded, I forgot to take pictures afterwards.

While I was at it, I replaced the 4° bushings with 7° - more caster would be nice. With 4° I'm in the 2° range :eek: So I'm aiming at roughly 5°.
IMG_4381.jpeg


I tried to do my best when tightening down the caps. On a somewhat level surface, they're within 1/8" of each other.
IMG_4382.jpeg


More to come!
 

landshark99

Bronco Guru
Joined
Oct 13, 2011
Messages
1,401
Looks great!

1/8” off is great, it’s sometimes tough to get the arms that close.
 
OP
OP
T

tody

Full Member
Joined
Mar 22, 2017
Messages
207
Ok, fronst suspension is back in. Now sporting the WH logo in the front!
IMG_4389.jpeg


Lean is gone, at least if you compare the front bumper to the ground:
IMG_4388.jpeg


But there's something going on with the cab, in the rear right corner:
IMG_4392.jpeg


Can be seen from behind, if you compare the rear bumper to the bottom of the tailgate:
IMG_4397.jpeg


Time to experiment with some shims...

Also, I addressed the drip rails. Cleaned them with a wire wheel, and put in some oil based rust inhibitor:
IMG_4390.jpeg

IMG_4391.jpeg


Seam sealer and some paint will be next!
 

DirtDonk

Contributor
Bronco Guru
Joined
Nov 3, 2003
Messages
47,747
If you're still running the original rubber body insulators at each mount, it's very likely that one or more of them are sagging/squishing under the weight of the body after all these years.
They are originally all 8 of them 3/4 of an inch tall, so if any of them are less than that you can add shims. Or just add new insulators and start fresh. If any of them are sagging now, likely as not they will continue to loose height over the next few years. This makes it a better idea to replace than just shim.

If all the mounting parts are newer though, then one of the mounts, or the body itself could be damaged slightly. In that case shims are in order. Even Ford used body shims when building these.

Paul
 
OP
OP
T

tody

Full Member
Joined
Mar 22, 2017
Messages
207
If you're still running the original rubber body insulators at each mount, it's very likely that one or more of them are sagging/squishing under the weight of the body after all these years.
They are originally all 8 of them 3/4 of an inch tall, so if any of them are less than that you can add shims. Or just add new insulators and start fresh. If any of them are sagging now, likely as not they will continue to loose height over the next few years. This makes it a better idea to replace than just shim.

If all the mounting parts are newer though, then one of the mounts, or the body itself could be damaged slightly. In that case shims are in order. Even Ford used body shims when building these.

Paul

Hey Paul, I'm already sporting the WH 1" body lift mounts!
When installing them, I took Johnny Cash's advice and replaced them one piece at a time... So I'm fairly confident I didn't mix up the existing shims. And the door gaps are ok-ish.
I'll start by loosening the rear bolt on the driver side, and jack the body up to see what is needed there!
 
Top